A hillside road above the leafy neighbourhood of Santa Teresa may not seem like the most obvious place to head for in the search for a traditional German meal, but that’s exactly where those with a hankering for hearty sausages and excellent imported German beer should head.
Following the bonde (tram) track along Rua Almirante Alexandrino as it winds its way through the bairro and up towards Laranjeiras will lead you to Mike’s Haus, a bar restaurant serving some of the best German beers you’ll find anywhere in the city. Opened in 2000 by the eponymous Mike (yes, he is German!), the informal bar/restaurant serves good quality, authentic German dishes to a mixed clientele of locals and hungry tourists. Famously the favoured haunt of Great Train Robber Ronnie Biggs, a resident of Santa Teresa for many of his years in exile, the bar has a relaxed ambience, and the small, covered, patio area is a pleasant spot to stop and relax with a drink while you contemplate the menu. Meat eaters are particularly well catered for, with the mixed plate of German sausages and bread (R$20) the most popular order among a list of starters that also includes a hearty goulash and smoked trout. Vegetarians are not forgotten – meat-free entrees include a legendary potato salad. Sausages feature heavily on the mains list too – in various forms including a popular curried version. Vegetarians do less well here, and will need to make their choices away from the German section of the menu. The options for non-meat eaters are a little uninspired – the camembert omlette with salad is less than spectacular – but there are decent cheese sandwiches if all else fails. Aside from the food, the real draw here is the excellent selection of German beers that are hard to find in the rest of the city. Erdinger and Warsteiner are among the imported beers on offer – although high import charges mean you’ll be paying a premium, with prices starting at R$14 for a small bottle. If that sounds a little steep, rest assured that the usual Brazilian suspects – cachaca, Brahma, Skol, are all on the menu at much less frightening prices. For dessert, there are only two choices – apple strudel, and apple strudel with ice-cream. Happily, I’m a big fan of this traditional German dish and so had no cause for complaint – I recommend the version with ice-cream to cool yourself down on a hot day.
Mike’s Hause is located away from the meain eating, drinking and shopping strip, at Almirante Alexendrino 1458. To get there, hop on the tram heading for Dois Irmaos, or, if you’re heading here at night, just grab a taxi.
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