therioguide: I am a British writer living and working in sunny Rio de Janeiro, Brazil. I made my escape from rainy Manchester, England in 2007, and now live in Santa Teresa with my crazy Brazilian dog, Clara.

Worst Rains in 40 Years hit Rio

Downtown Rio de Janeiro has been brought to a virtual standstill as the heaviest rains in 30 years have brought death and destruction on a horrific scale. Some 80-plus people are thought to have died as a result of the torrential downpours, which began during Tuesday afternoon´s rush hour and did not let up until Wednesday afternoon. I was in downtown Rio when the heavens opened, and within an hour the city center streets were ankle deep in filthy water. A lack of efficient drainage meant that the...

April 6th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Rio – Worth the Wait

Good things come to those who wait... ‘A man in a hurry will be miserable in Brazil’. I forget who coined this phrase, but whoever it was, they were bang on the money. If you’re planning a trip to Rio de Janeiro, leave extra time in your itinerary to allow for the time you will inevitably spend queueing, waiting for buses, or just waiting for other people. Rio is a laid back city, which is a refreshing change from the pace of life of many other major cities. But while it’s...

March 26th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Time to Pick Sides

Flamengo fans fly the flag at Maracana stadium If you want to make friends with locals in Rio, it’s time you picked a futebol (football/soccer) team. Whether you’re at a bar, a party or a supermarket queue, talk will inevitably turn at some point to the subject of the ‘beautiful game’. Brazilians are fanatical about football, and the fact that they have won the World Cup five times (more than any other country) reflects just how dedicated they are to the game. When Brazilians...

March 19th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Rio Bars for Budget Travelers

Sadly for budget travelers, the days when Rio offered a bargain break in the sun are long gone. Local 'corner bars' are fun and budget-friendly places to drink in Rio While your tourist dollar, Euro or pound would have stretched a long way just a couple of years ago, current exhange rates and increasingly high prices in the city mean that you’ll need to be careful to avoid blowing the budget in Rio. ioBut cutting back on spending doesn’t mean cutting back on fun in Rio, and nightowls...

March 19th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Chic and Cheerful

Hungry shoppers, prepare yourself for an avalanche of oranges. One of the most popular lunch spots in the downtown maze of bargain basement establishments that is Saara, Pasteleria Chic’s (map) takes kitsch kookiness to a whole new level. Open for business since 1970, the budget-friendly snack bar is something of a shrine to oranges – the walls are covered with white tiles decorated with oranges, while a 1950s style painting depicts a happy family picnicking in an orange grove. Meanwhile,...

March 14th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Keeping it Rio

There are some weird and wonderful sights to be found off-the-beaten-track in Rio For first-time visitors to Rio de Janeiro, it can be difficult to get off the tourist track and find the ‘real’ Rio. Language barriers, safety concerns and a whole host of other factors can hamper any attempts at discovering the city’s hidden treasures, but those who do persevere will discover that the beaches, the Christ statue and Sugar Loaf are far from being the city’s only charms. Firstly,...

March 7th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Watching the World Cup in Rio

'Futebol' is everywhere in Rio It’s football to us Brits, soccer to North Americans and Futebol to Brazilians – call it what you like, but never underestimate the importance of the ‘Beautiful Game’ in Brazil. This is a country that prides itself on having some of the most skillful players in the world, and with just a few months to go until the start of the World Cup, Rio is already gearing up to cheer on its national side in typical frenzied fashion. As Brazil itself...

March 5th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Rio in the Fall

After months of blazing sunshine and sizzling heat, temperatures in Rio have now taken a tumble and autumn is well and truly in the air. A Cloudy Day in Rio While it would be laughable to say that things ever get really cold in Rio, autumn and winter do bring their fair share of chilly days, so make sure you come prepared for any weather eventuality. While tropical downpours can appear from nowhere at any time of year, these can feel like blessed relief in the sticky heat of summer – but less...

February 28th, 2010 | Rest of the World | Read More

Franz Ferdinand in Lapa

Fans of Scots rockers Franz Ferdinand can catch the sharply-dressed quartet in Rio on March 19th, when they’ll play at Fundicao Progresso, in Lapa. This is a repeat visit to the city for the band, who are playing in Rio as part of a month-long South American tour that also takes in dates in Argentina, Paraguay, Chile, Colombia and Peru. If you want to follow the Brit boys on their Brazilian adventure, you can catch them in Porto Alegre (March 18th); Brasilia (March 21st), and Sao Paulo (March...

February 27th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Hey, Gringo!

Gringoes always stand out in a crowd If there’s one word you’ll get accustomed to hearing during your time in Rio de Janeiro, it’s ‘gringo’ (or, gringa for us girlies…). But while some visitors may bristle at the word, there’s very rarely any harm meant by it. The word, used all over Brazil, is a slang term for foreigner and can literally be applied to anybody from outside the country. It makes little difference how long you stay here, if you ‘look’...

February 25th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Beat the Summer Heat

Ilha Grande Ok, so blazing sunshine and 40 degree heat might not sound too terrible, but there are times when the heat and humidity of Rio summertime can get a little overwhelming. And while the crashing waves of the city’s beaches provide a little respite from the sweltering heat, the waters tend to be so packed with other hot and bothered holiday makers that there’s scarcely any elbow room. At times like this, the best way to beat the extreme heat is to hop on a bus and head for quieter...

February 20th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Michael Jackson and Batman Samba to Victory

Michael Jackson, Batman and a host of other enigmatic characters have helped Unidos da Tijuca take first prize in Rio’s Carnival samba parade for the first time in almost 80 years. The overall winners take home a trophy and the right to call themselves reigning samba school champions for a year – no small victory in a city as samba-crazy as Rio de Janeiro. Unidos da Tijuca swept aside competition from more celebrated schools such as Mangueira, Beija Flor de Nilopolis and last year’s...

February 19th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Carnival 2010 – What to Eat and Drink

You won't need to look far for food and drink during Carnival Rio Carnival is all about excess, and there’s no shortage of opportunity to eat and drink yourself into oblivion during this most hedonistic of celebrations. Throughout the four days of Carnival itself (along with the numerous pre and post-Carnival shindigs), the streets are jam packed with vendors selling tempting treats. Beer drinkers will never have to take more than a couple of steps before encountering somebody selling...

February 15th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Rio Carnival on a Budget

Getting Into the Carnival Spirit Budget travelers looking for a cheap holiday in Rio de Janeiro can have their work cut out at the best of times, thanks to spiraling prices and an increasingly strong national currency. And with the arrival of Carnival sending accommodation prices soaring, it can be easy to panic about the state of your travel budget. But panic not. While accommodation is undeniably pricey during Carnival, it’s so easy to make spending cuts elsewhere that you should have plenty...

February 11th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Costumes for Carnival

Two Che With less than a week to go until the start of Rio Carnival, there’s no time for dilly-dallying in planning what you’re going to wear for the four-day funfest. While the sequins and spangles of the samba schools are really best reserved for those on board the Carnival floats, there’s plenty of opportunity for the rest of us to get dressed up too. Forget little black numbers and chic suits, Carnival is all about fun and fantasy, so the more outlandish your outfit, the...

February 7th, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Single on Valentine’s Day? Not For Long!

With February 14 falling slap bang in the middle of Carnival, loved-up couples will have their work cut out trying to find a quiet spot for a romantic moment. Valentine’s Day isn’t marked here, with Brazilians instead celebrating ‘Lover’s Day’ later in the year, so don’t expect special menus and romance-themed activity. But for those singletons hoping to find romance in Rio, the excitement and energy of Rio Carnival provides the perfect opportunity to break the...

February 3rd, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Carnival Fever Sweeps Rio

With just days to go until the official start of Rio Carnival on Saturday, February 13, a festive fever is already sweeping the city. The major samba schools have been perfecting their moves and beats with technical rehearsals at Rio’s famous Sambodromo (the vast, purpose-built stadium that hosts Rio’s famous samba parades) for months, and the streets are alive with the relentless drumming that accompanies Rio’s numerous blocos, or street parties. Riotous celebrations that see locals...

February 1st, 2010 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

The Baianas of Santa Teresa

Clad in their traditional white robes and cooking up delicious-smelling goodies in bubbling pots, the famous Baianas (natives of Bahia) of Santa Teresa are not hard to spot. Selling spicy savouries and oh-so-sweet treats, the Baianas add an exotic element to the boho neighbourhood’s lively dining scene. There are two Bahian women with regular spots in the neighborhood, and their sweet or spicy goodies are an absolute treat. On weekend nights, one sets up her stall in front of the hugely popular...

September 27th, 2009 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Phones in Rio

Like many things in Brazil, the simple process of using a telephone can be extremely confusing for first-timers in Rio. From public phones to dialling codes to mobiles, the phone system is far from simple. The first thing to get your head around is the complicated dialling code system. If you’re dialling a non-local number, you’ll need to dial an operator code (021 or 031) before the area code, and then the telephone number. For international numbers, this gets even more complicated....

September 25th, 2009 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More

Five things to do in Rio in the spring

Jardim Botanico Rio’s ‘winter’ may be warmer than many countries’ summertime, but the arrival of spring is still greeted with great enthusiasm here in the cidade maravilhosa. With plenty of clear, sunny days, and hot – but not stifling – temperatures, spring is one of the nicest times of year to visit Rio de Janeiro, and by visiting between September and early December you’ll escape the tourist hordes that flock here during the peak summer season. Rio...

September 18th, 2009 | Rio de Janeiro | Read More