Life in the Ruins at Pompeii

Located 240km (150 miles) south of Rome (map), the ancient city of Pompeii (map) is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most visited tourist attractions in Italy. Once a bustling port city and commercial center with a population of around 20,000 people, Pompeii was destroyed by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 A.D. Pompeii is often referred to as a city frozen in time due to the fact that it was largely preserved – buried under more than 60 feet of ash and pumice – until its re-discovery in the mid-1700s.

Unique to Pompeii – and likely some of the most fascinating and haunting images you’ll see on your visit – are the plaster casts of the victims who perished in the tragedy. After the eruption of Mount Vesuvius, the remains of the victims were trapped within a layer of volcanic ash and debris creating a hollow representation of the body at the exact time of death.  In 1864, archaeologists developed a technique to preserve these hollowed out representations. By pouring plaster into the hollows they were able to reveal detailed casts of the bodies. These casts reveal a great deal about life in the city at the time of its destruction. The casts of the bodies are currently housed in glass display cases in the market hall.
Despite these recent troubles, the ruins at Pompeii and to a lesser extent neighboring Herculaneum (map), continue to be favorite destinations among day-trippers from Rome. Pompeii can be visited independently or as part of an organized coach tour, but regardless of how you approach it, a visit to Pompeii is a full-day trip outside of Rome. Since tour groups are rarely afforded more than 2-3 hours at the site, I suggest visiting Pompeii independently thus allowing yourself greater flexibility and more time to explore the ruins.In recent years a combination of poor maintenance, heavy tourism and extreme weather conditions have resulted in the deterioration and collapse of various structures within the Pompeii archaeological site. As recently as November of 2010, it was reported that two more walls within the ancient city had collapsed  – the fourth incident at the site in just over a month’s time. The most recent collapse involved the wall surrounding the well-known House of the Muralist. In early November, officials warned that as much as three-quarters of the archaeological site was in danger of collapse.

What to See at Pompeii

The ruins at Pompeii offer a glimpse into what life was like at the height of the Roman Empire. The city was originally founded in 600 B.C. and grew to become a typical middle-class Roman trading city.

At the intersection of Pompeii’s two main streets is the main square, or forum, which served as the city’s commercial, religious, and political center. From here you can see Mount Vesuvius looming in the background. In the forum you’ll find the Temple of Jupiter, city hall, the basilica and the market hall which houses glass cases displaying plaster casts of Pompeiians who weren’t able to escape the destruction.

Heading away from the forum you’ll pass the public baths and arrive at the House of the Tragic Poet. In the entryway is the famous “Beware of Dog” (Cave Canem) mosaic.

Another point of interest is the House of the Faun. It was Pompeii’s largest home covering an entire city block. Inside you’ll find the bronze statue of the dancing faun and the floor mosaic of the Battle of Alexander – the originals are on display in the National Archaeological Museum of Naples.

You’ll also want to visit the nearby House of the Vetti, Pompeii’s best preserved home with several original mosaics and frescoes on display. From there it’s possible to visit Pompeii’s bakery, brothel, temple and theater, which at one time could accommodate as many as 5,000 people.

A collection of statues and artifacts that were uncovered and removed from Pompeii and the other archaeological sites in the region are on display at the National Archaeological Museum (map) in Naples.

Pompeii Visitor Information

The Pompeii archaeological site is open daily November-March from 8:30am-5pm (last entry at 3:30pm) and daily April-October from 8:30am-7:30pm (last entry at 6:00pm).

A single ticket costs € 11.00 ($14.25) and is valid for one day for admission to the Pompeii archaeological site only. A multi-site ticket which grants access to five archaeological sites including Pompeii, Herculaneum, Oplontis, Stabiae and Boscoreale costs € 20.00 ($25.90) and is valid for three days.

Pompeii can be overwhelming without a guide or guidebook to point you in the right direction and provide a bit of background and history. The cost of admission includes a map of the site and a small pocket guide. Both the pocket guide and audio guide – available at the site entrance for €6.50 ($8.40) – will lead you, number by number, through Pompeii’s main attractions. Either one is a great option for touring the site independently and allows you the freedom to spend as much or as little time as you would like at each of the attractions.

When you visit you’ll want to allow at least 3-4 hours at the site, wear comfortable walking shoes and bring along some water, especially in warmer weather. Behind the far end of the forum is a modern cafeteria with a coffee shop and public restrooms. If you’re considering visiting both Pompeii and Herculaneum in one day, plan to spend around 3-4 hours at Pompeii and another 2 hours at Herculaneum.

Getting There From Rome

Traveling from Rome, the quickest and easiest way to reach Pompeii is by train from Rome’s Termini Station. The fast (and more expensive) train can get you from Rome to Naples in just over an hour.

After arriving at Piazza Garibaldi in Naples, switch to the Circumvesuviana which has departures every half hour. Take the Circumvesuviana heading towards Sorrento and get off at Pompei Scavi-Villa dei Misteri. The ride takes around 30 minutes. From there it’s just a short walk to the Porta Marina or Piazza Esedra entrance. Visitors to Herculaneum should exit at Ercolano.

It’s also possible to take the Circumvesuviana heading toward Poggiomarino, get off at Pompei Santuario and enter the site at Piazza Anfiteatro.

Photo Credits: Courtesy of Mary Jo Manzanares