Filed under: hiking, top-feature
Fox Glacier versus Franz Josef Glacier
Mother Nature is one of the top reasons that travelers head to New Zealand – it has some of the most diverse and accessible wilderness in the world. The hardest part really is catching some sleep on the long flight over. During your research, no doubt you’ll hear about the two of the country’s most popular glaciers: Franz Josef (map) and Fox (map).
The regular bus service as well as the guided tour buses all run along this the coastal road that runs west along the country’s western shores, so whether you’re driving or being driven, you’ll drop through both towns. They’re close enough, but given this is mountain country, you can’t do both in one day. And I know many will only have time to choose one – after all, you’ve seen one glacier, you’ve seen them all? (Well, not exactly, but I hear what you mean…) Instead of an exhaustive list of this-versus-that, I’ll walk you through the experience of both towns. After that, you’ll have to decide for yourself which one is for you.
Franz Josef
Some say that the town of Franz Josef is a bit over-touristed. I’d reluctantly agree – it is this infrastructure that sustains plenty of jobs and provides visitors with a great travel experience, but yes, compared to everything for hundreds of miles around, the village of Franz Josef can feel a little too much. But, if you want a touch of nightlife, a selection of restaurants, and lots of stuff going on, it can be loads of fun here.
Franz Josef glacier itself is similar to the Fox Glacier, though I found the route and trails a bit easier to get up to the glacier than in Fox. You can take advantage of guided tours or just go by yourself, or even take a helicopter up to the top. Note that if you’re going up unguided, please do not go past the marked signs – it is very unsafe to go too far, and since most mobile phones don’t work out here, you won’t be able to call for help. If you’re setting out on your own, be sure to let your hotel know to check in on you at the end of the day.
Frans Josef also has some other side trips for you to enjoy. There is whitewater rafting – accessible by helicopter only so not cheap – skydiving is also another popular tour option. Or you might want to sip on a glass of your favorite New Zealand wine while enjoying a dip in the local glacial hot pools. Hard to argue with that after a day of adrenaline in the hills.
More Information: Glacier Country Website
Fox Glacier
Fox Glacier is my personal favorite of the two. It has the feel of an old wild west output – a decidedly sleepy outpost at that. There’s only one bar, attached to one of only two restaurants. The only shop in town is attached to the bar. These are all on the only “intersection” to speak of in town. Without the glacier, there would only be tumbleweed.
So if this laid back style sounds good, you’d love it here. It’s so quiet and peaceful that you are just lulled into almost a relaxed state. I do suggest checking out the pub or restaurant, but it’s also a great to make a nice meal at your accommodation then hang out and relax.
As for Fox Glacier itself, my goodness it is enormous. It is pretty far out of town – and by that, I mean, you have to walk uphill quite a while to get to Fox. It’s not a clear path either – so I skipped it and when for the helicopter that lifts you up to the middle of the glacier. This is such a surreal experience, and I highly recommend it because it highlights just how big the glacier is. The photo above makes it look like a slice of ice in a valley, but realistically this glacier is 8 miles long. It is, simply, enormous. And by spending some cash and taking the helicopter, you skip the hours of hiking and get that time on the ice instead. Don’t forget your sunscreen – I got a killer sunburn from the sun reflecting off the ice in all directions. And also, you don’t need to overdress. If it’s sunny, it will be warm up here. It’s odd, I know.
Tip: Be sure to save some time go to to the famous “mirror lake” for sunrise. Sunset is nice, but sunrise is probably one of my most memorable experiences. I rode a bike there – in the dark, freezing cold and in shorts because my luggage had gotten lost. Long story, but when the mountains were cast in a shadow that reflected perfectly on the lake below it, I was aghast. One of the most beautiful things ever – totally worth the 4:45AM wake up call.
More Information: Glacier County Website
Photo Credits: edwin.11, Andrew Turner
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