Filed under: fashion, perfume, Shopping, top-feature
Shopping Paris: 31 rue Cambon and Beyond
For years I had a secret department store ritual: I would stop at a Chanel counter, spray myself with the iconic No. 5 fragrance, and then walk around for hours trying to decide if I could pull it off. I never bought a bottle — how does one wear the most recognizable fragrance in the world? — but I knew when I arrived in Paris for the first time that it was now or never … and I chose now!
The author, post-Chanel fragrance shopping in Paris.
Shopping at Chanel is a magical experience: the staff is personal and friendly, your purchases are wrapped like precious cargo and small white fabric camellias (a favorite of Mademoiselle) are used to embellish your shopping bag (see above photo). At the original Paris Chanel couture boutique at 31 rue Cambon (map), Mademoiselle’s apartments remain untouched on an upper floor, while the boutique remains open for business at street level. Even my husband was impressed with the bright interior, sleek countertops and high-end fashion. (He didn’t “get” all of it, at one point asking about an unusual pair of pants: “Um – are gorilla pants in this year?”) I spent a lot of time spraying myself with plenty of perfume, and in the end I walked out with a bottle of No. 5 … and a bottle of Coco Mademoiselle for good measure. I figured that if I was going to buy No. 5, it might as well be in Paris!
Needless to say, I’m a crazy Chanel fan. Of course I think the brand is excellent, but I am also fascinated by Coco’s story. Born Gabrielle Chanel, Coco grew up poor in rural France, orphaned by age 10 after her mother died of tuberculosis and her father abandoned the family. Coco spent her childhood in a Catholic orphanage at the Aubazine monastery and it was there she learned to sew. The exact details of her life aren’t always clear, as she freely rewrote her own story in each retelling, but in-between the tales of great love and loss, ambition and success, she built herself an empire: first by designing hats, then clothes, and finally by choosing No. 5 as her signature fragrance. Of course, rue Cambon isn’t the only Chanel store in Paris; I also visited 18 Place Vendôme (map), now a couture jewelry boutique located across from the Ritz where Coco Chanel lived for the last 30 years of her life, and where she died in 1971 at the age of 87. There are other Chanel shops in the city but a trip to the rue Cambon and Place Vendôme locations should be at the top of your list, if only for their historical significance in the story of the House of Chanel.
Even this Coco-obsessed fan has to admit that Chanel isn’t the only shopping in Paris; the city is full of opportunities for fashionistas and shopaholics. Here are a few of my suggestions of favorite shops and locations that I discovered during our week in Paris. (Hint: Husbands complain less about shopping in Paris when it’s cold outside, so don’t dismiss the idea of visiting Paris in December! Even my husband bought himself a bottle of cologne at Chanel.)
Rue Saint-Honoré and Rue de Rivoli
We stayed in Paris’s 1st arrondissement (district) near the Louvre because we wanted to be within walking distance of the museum, as well as the Musée d’Orsay, Eiffel Tower, and Notre Dame. Luckily for me this decision also put us in the middle of some fabulous shopping. Rue Saint-Honoré and Rue de Rivoli are lined with shops: duty-free stores, tourist traps with fun-but-chintzy souvenirs, and plenty of chic boutiques. I almost forgot about my visits to the Colette boutique at 213 Saint-Honoré (map) until I ran across a mention of the shop on Melissa C. Morris‘s May-December Blog. Melissa visited Paris a few weeks after I did and I’m glad she reminded me about Colette so that I can pass it on to you. The boutique was just a block or so away from my hotel and I loved to pop in during our afternoon walks.
You will also find shopping at the Carrousel du Louvre (map) on Rue de Rivoli, a somewhat museum-centric shopping center where the first Apple store in France is located. Check the Carrousel du Louvre website for store hours. You can access this area via metro stops Palais Royale-Musée du Louvre or Louvre Rivoli.
Louis Vuitton on Champs-Elysees in Paris, France.
Louis Vuitton on Champs-Elysees in Paris, France.
Avenue des Champs-Élysées
The famous Champs-Élysées is worth the walk and the “see-and-be-seen” atmosphere the grand avenue creates, even if you don’t want to shop. The shopping is fabulous on Champs-Élysées; popular chain stores (think GAP, Benetton, H & M) are mixed in with high-end designers (Chanel, Dior, Guerlain) and trendy boutiques, but be forewarned – this area is trés touristy. Champs-Élysées is located in Paris’s 8th arrondissement and can be accessed by metro via the Charles de Gaulle Etoile station.
Saint-Germain-des-Prés
Saint-Germain-des-Prés is located in the 6th arrondissement of France, on the Left Bank of the Seine. You can easily walk from the 1st district to Saint-Germain-des-Prés in 15-20 minutes, and once there you will find lovely shops and even lovelier cafés. One of my favorites, Café de Flore, is the perfect spot to take a break, have a glass of wine or a café au lait while you review your purchases, assess the damage to your pocketbook, or check your itinerary. (Don’t miss my recent article on Paris cafés: 7 Tips for Travelers.) This district was my favorite for people watching in between shopping trips. You can access Saint-Germain-des-Prés via metro at the Saint-Germain-des-Prés station.
NOTE: If you are interested in learning more about Chanel–the couture house and the woman behind it–I recommend Coco Chanel: The Legend and The Life by Justine Picardie (HarperCollins). For more information on the world’s most famous perfume I recommend The Secret of Chanel No. 5: The Intimate History of the World’s Most Famous Perfume by Tilar J. Mazzeo (Harper).
To save your pennies for shopping – make sure you take a look at short term rentals in Paris during your stay from iStopOver!
Photo credits: Images 1 & 2 from the personal collection of Christina Uticone & Joshua Payne; (Louis Vuitton)
1 Comment
Great article! Made me think of the hilarious S&TC episode where Carrie slips and splatters herself all over the floor of Dior. That would be me, so I think you’re ever so brave to venture into such hoity-toity shops.