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Paris Cafes at Your Leisure: 7 Tips for Travelers
Walking the streets of Paris for the first time, my husband and I felt like we were on the set of an impossibly romantic film: the December skies were overcast and dramatic, wrought-iron balconies lined the windows of hotels and apartments, and the sound of spoken French was all around us. Strolling through the streets, it was hard not to reflect on the buildings that surrounded us – buildings that were witness to historic moments from the French Revolution and World War II: the Louvre, the Palais-Royale, and the Notre Dame Cathedral to name just a few.
The winter air was cold and crisp and people filled the streets from morning until night, bundled in smart pea coats and wrapped in chic cashmere scarves. Some were Parisian, some tourists like me and my husband, but everyone at some point would duck into a warm café, grateful to drop into an empty seat and say, “Un café, s’il vous plaît!” (“A coffee, please!”)
Whether you stay for a quick cup of coffee or you spend hours over wine and a plate of charcuterie et fromage (an assortment of meats and cheeses), a trip to Paris begs for time spent in a Parisian café. While it is tempting to run from one tourist attraction to the next, the Parisian café is a tourist attraction all its own and should not be missed. Whether you hit a well-known hot-spot like Café de Flore on Boulevard Saint-Germain or you turn down a tiny side street to find a shop with five tables and one waiter, it is in a café where you will best relax and observe the City of Lights.
Here are seven tips to help you enjoy the café culture of Paris.
Tip #1: Learn a little French
Don’t be intimidated by the French or their language! A few polite key phrases can help you break the ice when you are ordering.
- Hello, how are you?: Bonjour, comment allez-vous? or: Bonjour, comment ça-va?
- A coffee, please: Un café, s’il vous plaît.
- Thank you: Merci!
- You’re welcome: De rien.
- Good evening: Bonsoir!
- Please: S’il vous plaît.
- Goodbye: Au revoir.
Tip #2: Check the Menu
Almost every café and restaurant in Paris posts a copy of their menu in the window so that passersby can see the selection and the prices. We paid between two and six euro per coffee, with the cost depending on café location and type of beverage (I prefer the less expensive espresso for 2-3 € while my husband got twice the charge from double espressos at 4-6 € each.)
Turning down smaller side streets was how we found our favorite cafes.
Turning down smaller side streets was how we found our favorite cafes.
Tip #3: Go Exploring
There are cafés everywhere in Paris so don’t worry about wandering too far from your next cafe au lait. If you are more comfortable with a café that caters to tourists look for the busiest ones on the main streets; if you are interested in a more “authentic” Parisian experience explore the side streets and look for a quieter spot. It is worth noting that cafés and restaurants line the streets around every major tourist attraction, but if you walk just another block or two you will find cafés that are slightly less crowded – and expensive.
Tip #4: On Tipping
Tipping is appreciated but not customary. In Paris a service charge is already added onto your bill and a tip is not expected, particularly for inexpensive meals and/or drinks. If you only enjoy a cup or two of coffee a tip is not expected at all. We always left at least one euro, even if we only had two quick cafés; my husband and I worked in the restaurant industry for years and found it difficult to not leave a little something.
Tip #5: Unwind
Bring your camera, a notebook and a pen, a newspaper or a book. Spend time reflecting on things you have already seen, or use your time in the café to plan what is next on your sightseeing list. Sit and watch the other patrons, the people on the street, and record your observations. Enjoying a quick cup of coffee between stops is nice, but try to devote some real quiet time in a cafe to enjoy it as its own experience.
We planned our afternoon in Saint-Germain at the Cafe de Flore.
We planned our afternoon in Saint-Germain at the Cafe de Flore.
Tip #6: Smoking vs. Non-Smoking
You will see cafés that have covered, outdoor seating; these areas are heated in the winter with space heaters and are quite cozy. In Paris smoking is allowed in these outdoor seating areas so if you do not like cigarette smoke request to be seated inside, where smoking is not allowed.
Tip #7: Be Patient
Relax and enjoy yourself. The pace at restaurants and cafés in Paris is slow and leisurely. The staff expects you to sit down and relax; there won’t be a manager or waiter hovering, waiting to turn over your table as soon as you empty your coffee cup or glass of wine. If it takes a few minutes for a server to take your order it isn’t because they are ignoring you. Tip #7 part b: A waiter is less likely to approach if you are still looking at your menu. When you are ready to order close your menu and put it aside to signal the waiter.
Photos from the personal collection of Christina Uticone and Joshua Payne.
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