Filed under: architecture, literary history, top-feature, walking tour. Greenwich Village
A Walking Tour in Greenwich Village: Poets, Pubs, and Pretty Historic Streets
Greenwich Village in New York City has historically been the home of writers, poets, artists, and others with a creative flair. While some people might complain that this neighborhood has been gentrified, the truth is, it is just as beautiful as ever. With a few highlights (and a map, the streets here are notoriously confusing) to guide you, wandering through the West Village and its many pubs, cafes, and book shops can be one of the most rewarding ways to spend an afternoon in New York City.
Every writer will have their own list of literary landmarks in Greenwich Village, and this list is often lengthy. I’ve narrowed down several of my favorites to form a walking tour that can be enjoyed over a leisurely afternoon. In my opinion, a literary walking tour must begin at Washington Square Park. Besides being the home of a great food truck, this New York landmark is known as a cultural center of Greenwich Village. Here Beat poets gathered crowds singing songs and reciting verse, and generations of NYU students gave the park its reputation for nonconformism.
After a stroll through the park and maybe taking in a concert at the famous Marble Arch, exit the park through the arch and turn right onto Washington Square North. The homes that line the northern flank of the park will evoke a different time in literary history. Stop in front of Number 7 and it will be easy to envision the time when Edith Wharton called this building home. At just 20 years of age in 1882 the influential writer lived here with her mother, in a wealthy aristocratic fashion. This area of New York City has been a desirable location to live for much longer than many visitors are aware.
Edith Wharton's former home
Retrace your steps along the northern flank of Washington Square Park heading west towards 6th Avenue.
Turning right to walk north on 6th Avenue, it will be almost impossible not to notice the distinct student feel to this neighborhood.Students from NYU and the New School will be carrying around piles of books, discussing literature on street corners, and maybe even handing out magazines of poems and stories they put together with friends.This bustling part of the walk always reminds me that literature is alive and well in Greenwich Village.
Continue walking a few blocks up 6th Avenue until you reach West 10th Street. Turn left onto West 10th, and keep your eye out for an iron gate on the northern side of the road. This is the entrance to Patchin Place, a small enclave of charming houses that somehow escapes the noise and buzz of nearby 6th Avenue. While the gate is up to discourage visitors, go ahead and let yourself in to catch a quick glimpse at Number 4 Patchin Place, the former home of celebrated poet e.e. cummings. He lived in this building for forty years. Standing on the quiet street, it will be easy to see how this little nook must have been an inspirational place for him.
Patchin Place, home of e.e. cummings for 40 years
Once you’re back on West 10th Street, continue walking west through some of the Village’s most beautiful streets. Crossing 7th Avenue, the streets become somehow even prettier, with well maintained brownstones, intricate flower boxes, and cafes full to the brim at any time of the day. When you reach West 4th Street, turn right, stroll up two blocks and turn left on Perry Street. By now, you might start to hear some international voices. People from around the globe stroll this block to stop in front of Number 66, the exterior of the building home to the fictitious writer from Sex and the City, Carrie Bradshaw.
66 Perry Street, Fictitious home of Carrie Bradshaw
Sex and the City fans might be saying to themselves – but Carrie Bradshaw lives on the Upper East Side? While in the show, Carrie’s address is on the Upper East Side, the building where they shot the exteriors of her brownstone apartment is right here in Greenwich Village, at 66 Perry Street. Go ahead and snap your photos, but don’t climb up the stairs to the door, after all this is someone’s home. By now you might be ready for some refreshment. Continue along Perry Street heading west to Hudson Street. Turn right and you will find the White Horse Tavern, with its glowing red neon sign, on the corner.
The White Horse Tavern is one of the most famous literary spots in the entire city. It was not only the favorite drinking spot of many writers from Ezra Pound to Jack Kerouac to Allen Ginsberg. Perhaps most famously, this is the place where Dylan Thomas was drinking before he died, and sometimes the story is even exaggerated to suggest that he died walking out of the bar. Today, the tavern maintains its charms, and the outside tables are a great spot for people watching. Not only is this a great place to have a beer, but the food is also affordable and hearty. Here you will find standard pub fare, in an above standard environment ($5 for a beer, $8.50 for a burger).
After your meal you might be ready for a little more walking. Head south on Hudson for a few blocks to Christopher Street. Head east on Christopher and turn onto Bedford Street. Here you will find 75 1/2 Bedford Street, the narrowest house in all of New York, that was once home to Pulitzer-Price winning poet Edna St Vincent Millay. At just 9 1/2 feet wide, this building is striking beyond its literary associations.
If you made it this far on my version of a literary walking tour in Greenwich Village, I will be very impressed. There are so many tempting bakeries (most famously Magnolia Bakery), book shops, boutiques, and charming cafes that will be beckoning you off course. By taking your time exploring these streets of Greenwich Village, you’re more likely to feel like Jack Kerouac than a tourist.
Itinerary:
- Washington Square Park (map)
- Number 7 Washington Square Park North: home of Edith Wharton. (map)
- Number 4 Patchin Place: home of e.e. cummings. (map)
- 66 Perry Street: fictitious home of Carrie Bradshaw. (map)
- White Horse Tavern: famous drinking spot for literary minds. (map)
- 75 1/2 Bedford Street: narrow home of Edna St Vincent Millay. (map)
Photo Credit: All photos from the personal collection of Jessica Colley.
5 Comments
Just looking at some of your old NYC stuff, Jessica. Spent more time in the White Horse over the years than I care to admit. Still like sitting outside on warm spring day. Nice job, JC.