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Wandering Boston’s North End
Boston’s red- brick Freedom Trail brings throngs of tourists to the North End to see the home of Paul Revere- he is the neighborhood’s most famous resident after all. But it is the authentic ristorantes, tempting pastisseria’s and cozy cafes that compel visitors to linger. Fronting Boston Harbor, the North End is a peninsula and is one of the city’s oldest neighborhoods-it was first settled in the 1630′s by tradesman. Today, the area is famously known as the city’s Italian-American neighborhood. The old-country roots still run deep here-nearly every weekend during the summer there is a “feste” or street fair sponsored by one of the neighborhood’s social clubs to honor a patron saint. But please don’t call the North End “Little Italy”- that neighborhood is in New York City.
Most visitors head over to the North End from the Quincy Market/Faneuil Hall area by crossing North End Park (at Cross St.) (travel guide). Part of the Rose Kennedy Greenway, and one of the crown jewels of the Central Artery Project , this is an ideal spot to take a break from your Freedom Trail walk. As you continue your stroll, it is hard to resist the lure of the restaurants and cafes along Hanover Street, the North End’s main drag, but resist you must. Pasta and pastry will be your reward after you sight-see.
Revolutionary hero, silversmith, and father of sixteen, Paul Revere is a big deal in these parts. The Paul Revere House (19 North Square) (travel guide) is open to the public and has been lovingly restored. No visit to Boston is complete without a visit here. The smallish wood-framed, clapboard-shingled Tudor house was built in 1680 and is typical of New England homes of that era. The house is open for self-guided tours and museum interpreters are on hand to answer questions.
As you head back towards Hanover Street, you will pass St. Stephen’s Church (401 Hanover St.) (travel guide) another Charles Bulfinch (he was the architect of the Massachusetts State House) design. Originally a Unitarian Church, it has been a Catholic parish since 1862 and has a strong Kennedy connection-Rose Fitzgerald Kennedy was baptized here in 1890 and her funeral Mass took place here in 1995. Across the street, don’t miss the Paul Revere Mall (416 Hanover St.) (travel guide) where you will find one of the city’s best photo ops-the bronze Paul Revere equestrian statue with the steeple of Old North Church in the background. Of “one if by land, two if by sea” fame, Old North Church (193 Salem St., free drop-in tours daily) (travel guide) is where two lanterns were hung by sexton Robert Newman in the steeple on the eve of April 18, 1775 which signaled that the British were leaving Boston by water and set Paul Revere off on his famous “midnight ride”.
Savor the tastes of Italy to really experience the North End. Award-winning North End Market Tours (buy tickets in advance, on-line) offers food-lovers an insider’s view of the pastry shops, authentic grocers, and wine stores of the neighborhood.
Mike’s (300 Hanover St.), Modern (257 Hanover St.) or Maria’s (46 Cross St.)? Everyone wants to know where to get the best cannoli in the North End. No worries here, they are all great. Tip: If the weather is fine, ask for your pastries in a take-away box and snag a table and chairs at North End Park. Open 24 hours a day, nearly every Boston-area college student has made a middle-of-the-night Bova Bakery (134 Salem St.) run at least once during their undergraduate years for calzone and warm Italian bread. Caffe Vittoria (296 Hanover St.) serves espresso, pastries, gelato and grappa all day and late into the night.
For astonishingly-cheap ($1.35 a slice) Sicilian-style pizza a sub shop setting, check out Galleria Umberto (289 Hanover St.). It’s cash-only ,open for lunch only, and when the pizza is gone-it’s gone.The essence of North End pizza can still be found at Pizzeria Regina (11 1/2 Thatcher St.), a local institution. This is the chain’s flagship location- they have been making thin-crust pizza here forever-well since 1926. It’s that ancient wood burning oven that makes the pizza great. With brick walls and sepia- toned lighting Antico Forno (93 Salem St.) is a friendly place for terrific wood-fired roasted chicken and baked gnocchi. Find Italian small plate cuisine paired with wines by the glass at hotspot Nebo (90 North Washington St.) which has brought a trendy element to the North End nightlife scene. Dinner date? Experience high-end rustic Italian at Prezza (24 Fleet St.). Chef Caturano’s gnocchi a la bolognese is so good- with a meat ragout, tomato, porcini cream, and pecorino-that you will think you are dining in Italy.
For the tools you need to cook Italian, look no further than the neighborhood’s True Value Hardware Store (89 Salem St.) for pizza peels, ravioli presses, espresso makers and pizelle irons. Find hammers and screwdrivers too. You can feel the passion at Salumeria Italiana (151 Richmond St.). Every nook of this small grocery is stocked with Italian food staples-coffee, oilve oil, aged balsamic vinegar, and hard-to-find pastas along with lovely cheeses and outstanding cured meats. The Wine Bottega (341 Hanover St.) specializes in small production wines, not the same boring bottles you see everywhere else.There are free Friday evenings tastings and a knowledgeable staff to guide neophytes. .
In-jean-ius (441 Hanover St.) is a designer women’s boutique with more than 30 brands of designer denim labels. A helpful staff means that you may find your perfect pair. Need a place to browse before dinner? Check out Shake the Tree (95 Salem St.) to find an eclectic mix of trendy clothes, mixed-stone jewelery, and fun gifts. Love, love Acquire (61 Salem St.) which stocks revamped antique furniture and one-of-a kind accessories such as industrial lamps and seltzer bottles.
Finally, long before farmer’s markets were all the rage, there was Haymarket (along Blackstone St.) (travel guide) .This historic open air produce market features raucous vendors that entertain the crowds of shopper as they hawk their wares-fruits, vegetables, flowers and more. The produce is sometimes past-prime, but the prices can’t be beat. It’s open from dawn to dusk on Fridays and Saturdays year- round.
Image Credits: Paul Revere Statue: Boston Convention and Visitor’s Bureau; Cannoli: Massachusetts Travel and Tourism
