Filed under: casual restaurants, restaurant, Shopping, top-feature
Begijnhof: A Step into the Middle Ages and Back
Tucked away behind Kalverstraat, Begijnhof, Beguine Court (Travel Guide), a green space, offers a welcome break from Amsterdam’s people-packed streets. Begijnhof is one of my secret spots where I like to sit and relax. Sneak into this restful haven through a little gateway on Spui or go to the main entrance on Gedempte Begijnensloot.
Begijnhof History
Begijnhof began in the 14th century as homes for Beguines, Catholic lay nuns who educated the poor and cared for the sick. When men took off during the crusades, society was left with an abundance of single women. Many other women were widowed by the hazards of overseas trade, when their husbands never returned home from dangerous voyages. In the late Middle Ages, careers available to women were wifehood or the nunnery. Many single women did not want to take religious vows and became lay nuns. They cared for the needy in return for lodging. But the Beguines living at Amsterdam Begijnhof had means of their own because they owned their house. This is why the dwellings at Begijnhof are not uniform in size and architecture.
Only one wooden house in Begijnhof survived the many fires that ravished Amsterdam in the Middle Ages. Today Begijnhof is a huddle of 17th and 18th century houses overlooking a central garden with the atmosphere of a village green. The last Beguine died in 1970, and since then Begijnhof has provided housing to single women and female seniors. Opening hours are from 09:00 – 17:00 and entrance is free.
Houses at Begijnhof
Begijnhof Today
- The English Church
The church in the middle of the square dates to early 15th century and is the only church in Amsterdam with its original tower. During the alteration in 1578, the church was confiscated from the Catholics and given to Presbyterians fleeing from England seeking refuge in liberal Amsterdam. Today, the church is still known as the English Church. A wall plaque commemorates the fact that some members of this group were the later Pilgrim Fathers. A stained-glass window depicts pilgrims praying before boarding the Mayflower and sailing for America. Cornelia Arens, a seventeenth century beguine, loved the Begijnhof so much that she asked to be buried in the gutter. Her wish was not granted. She rests under a slab of red granite on the left side of the church. - Begijnhof Chapel
After their church had been confiscated, the Beguines went without a church for nearly a century. In 1671, the Protestant authorities allowed them to have a clandestine church where they and other Catholics attended mass in secret until freedom of religion was restored at the end of the 18th century. The Begijnhof Chapel is at Nos 29 – 30. Its stained-glass windows tell the story of The Miracle of Amsterdam. On 15 March 1345, a dying man was administered the last rites. After receiving the host he became sick. His vomit was thrown into the fire but the next day the host lay undamaged in the ashes. A priest put the host into a box and brought it to the parish church, today’s Oude Kerk. But the box miraculously found its way back to the sick man’s house. It was brought back to the church, but again went back to the house. This was seen as a miraculous sign and Amsterdam became the centre of pilgimage. Each year on or close to 15 March, pilgrims flock in their thousands to Amsterdam to take part in the Silent Procession through the city’s old centre. It begins with Holy Mass at the church at Begijnhof Chapel. The procession proceeds in absolute silence, no singing, no praying, no religious attributes and no clerical attire
- Begijnhof Courtyard
In 1521, Amsterdam municipality banned all wooden buildings in the city because they had become a fire risk. That’ s why most houses in Begijnhof date from 17th century onward. The only exception is No 34,the Houten Huys, the Wooden House dating from 1465. In front of this house is a charming little statue dedicated to all Beguines who once lived in Begijnhof. Elegantly carved gable stones adorn many house fronts. They identified dwellings until 1795, when Napoleon introduced house numbers. Next to the wooden house you will find what the Middle Ages considered raunchy images. These include – roosters, they are male, dogs, dirty animals, and male humans over the age for three.
Beguine Statue at Begijnhof
Entrance to Begijnhof is free. In summer you may find the entrance gate to Begijnhof closed, even though the notice says that opening hours are until 5 pm. The reason is that the residents are fed up with the throngs of visitors walking about. Bear in mind that the residents of want to sit outside in their tiny gardens and prefer not to have tourists staring at them.
Back to the 21st Century
An arched alleyway next to the Begijnhof Church leads to Spui, a bustling square lined with cafes and restaurants. On Fridays, you will find Spui Square crammed with book stalls and on Saturdays it is Art Market Day. You are now only a few steps away from the Floating Flower Market along Singel Canal (daily 9 am – 5 pm, some stalls close on Sundays, admission free). Buckets of lemon-yellow daffodils, magenta hyacinths and crimson red tulips cluster the stalls. Delicate scents mingle and fill the passage. Stock up on tulip bulbs with an export certificate or buy a garden gnome, a pair of clogs or Delftware pepper and salt shakers.
Shopping in Kalverstraat
Time to do some shopping in nearby Kalverstraat (Calves Street). This pedestrian-only shopping street stretches from the Floating Flower Market to Dam Square. This strip has been a commercial centre since the Middle Ages, when it was used as a cattle market. It makes me wonder if the Beguines stocked up on a sheep or two for wool making. Mingle with the locals and visitors that jostle and swarm along the narrow street.
Wooden Clogs a Perfect Souvenir
The shops in Kalverstraat brim with bargains and shoppers. Come on a Tuesday morning, if you want to browse during quiet hours. Fashionistas on a budget will rave about Swedish retailer Hennes & Mauritz, better known as H&M, (Kalverstraat 125). Stop at Bazar Souvenir Shop (Kalverstraat 156) and take home a Delftware cow creamer, a Van Gogh reproduction or a pair of clogs. The Body Shop (Kalverstraat 157) cosmetics, soap and refill bottles beg your attention. Since 1990, the company has not used a single ingredient that was tested on animals. A trip to Kalverstraat is not complete without stopping at No 2, Fame, Amsterdam’s largest music store. Three floors packed with CD’s, DVD’s, and Play Station Games.
Shopping Hours in Kalverstraat Tuesday – Saturday 10:00 – 18:30, Monday 12:00 -18:30, Thursday 10:00 – 21:00, Sunday 12:00 – 18:00.
Shopping makes for hunger.
Eet & Bierencafe De Beiaard (Spui 30, open from 11 am to midnight) is a pleasant stop for a cappuccino with scrumptious apple pie or a Trappist Beer in the afternoon. Join the locals at the bar or sit in the airy conservatory. Watch the people and and listen to the trams clanging their bells. Their evening menu beckons with a creative selection of comfort food. To start with you might like a creamy tomato soup or carpaccio sprinkled with Parmesan cheese , pinenuts and lemon-mayonnaise. Pork tender loin wrapped in bacon and brie cheese doused in a calvados sauce make the perfect main course. Wash it down with Manke Monnik (Crippled Monk), a home-produced brew. This unfiltered golden triple. Its slightly bitter aftertaste would would have appealed to the Beguines.
Photo credits Mariuanne Crone Personal Collection
