Filed under: featuredarticle1, outdoor recreation, skiing, snow, top-feature
Zermatt and the Matterhorn
Pictured is the charming mountain peak above the Swiss village of Zermatt (map). As one of the world’s most recognizable peaks, the Matternhorn is beautiful, majestic, touched by a snowy peak almost year-round.
Or so I’ve heard. You see, that isn’t my photo. I’ve been to Zermatt twice, and I’ve never seen the Matternhorn. It’s often clouded in a foggy haze, particularly in winter. Or, such was my experience.
Nonetheless, if you miss Zermatt’s main attraction, you will not be disappointed, as there are plenty of other lovely sights to tempt you.
Ski
Alpine air and snowy peaks are the main draw to Zermatt in the winter. The tourist information center next to the train station has several maps for skiing trails – they’re not free but cheap and I highly recommend grabbing one – though you can do some pre-planning on the official Zermatt website before you go. As you’ll see when you look at the map, the valley itself is basically one gigantic ski resort, with different areas you can head up into, all leading back down into Zermatt. These trails range from the super-advanced-difficult to the not-so-bad-easy type, and the maps clearly mark what is what. Be sure to choose wisely before you head up, because as you can guess, there’s only one way down.
Getting up is easy: there’s a whole network of transportation systems from Zermatt into the mountains, including cable cars, railway lines, ski lifts, and suspension lifts. Like most things in Switzerland, these systems all work in tandem, run like clockwork, and are incredibly efficient at getting visitors from point A to point B effortlessly.
Considering the number of downhill ski runs, I find it hard to make a recommendation as it depends on the weather, your fitness level, and your skiing ability. The main areas are Rothorn, Gornergrat, Klein Matterhorn, and Schwarzsee. Rothorn has some incredible views and very long, uninterrupted runs. Klein Matterhorn is actually on a glacier, so it’s a bit trickier to navigate (and a long ski down), but for the advanced skiier, it’s pretty unbelievable.
If you tire of the main trails, off-piste skiing is an option, but only for the advanced skier because it can be quite dangerous and the trails are not at all marked, sometimes heading for miles out into the wilderness. An alternative is a visit to Zermatt’s tiny neighbor, Täsch. The big draw here in winter are the cross-country skiing trails. If you’re feeling a bit nervous about Zermatt’s steeper slopes, perhaps a day out here will be more interesting option especially for the beginner who may just need a break from the adrenaline.
I might mention that one highlight of Zermatt skiing is food. They have the best restaurants up in the mountains. Seriously, if you’re hungry, stop at the next place you see. Fondue, beer, raclette. Yum!
Also be mindful of the weather conditions, as they can change in the blink of an eye here in the Alps – don’t assume that because it is sunny in town, your trek will be uneventful.
City Sights
It’s ok if your ski legs are worn out, or if the weather’s particularly ferocious, to take a day off from the snow, as the village will take care of you. Zermatt must be the world’s quietest city – it is so tranquil that it will redefine your definition of tranquil. Even when one of the local bars is having a busy night or there’s a party in an apartment, it seems the noise doesn’t carry and the mountains deafen anything but a random squawk or crunch from a nearby animal. A heavy blanket of snow – common during ski season, naturally – deafens things even more. If you have waterproof gear, a hike out in the snow can be enjoyable, just be sure to stick to well marked trails and return before dark.
Getting Here
If you’re driving, DO NOT drive into Zermatt. It is a car-free zone, and I actually saw some Italians getting a ticket when we were there! The easiest way to get into town is via train – and this is, without question, the best way to travel throughout Switzerland. Having said that, Zermatt is in the middle of a mountain valley with only one way in and one way out. (Humorously, it’s really only a few miles from the Italian border – over the most rugged terrain in Switzerland!) So you’ll have to catch a train Brig or Visp and then switch. Don’t worry, though, it is well signposted and most railway conductors speak English.
SBB is the national train company carrier, and you’ll find plenty of information, including timetables, on their website. I should warn you, rail service in Switzerland is superb – but you pay a premium for spotless stations, impeccable railway cars, and friendly service. Often even a short journey can be $50 or $100!
Once you’re here, you’ll want equipment and passes. Most of the equipment shops are on Hofmattstrasse and nearby – prices are similar (e.g. moderately overpriced). I do suggest a pass – there are a few options, so it depends on what trails you want. The Skipass (76USD a day, discounts for multiple days) is sort of the “generic” option, but you can also get this pass bundled with some extra train routes. Then there’s the Wollipass (a few dollars cheaper), which is only for a select set of lifts, including the beginner’s park. The type of pass depends on which runs you want to hit – hence why a bit of pre-planning is absolutely necessary.
Honestly, the best bet is to get the map (in person or online), map out some routes, and then match up with a pass. There are tons of choices, so it’s worth spending a half hour working out your plan, so you don’t end up somewhere you don’t want to be after dark or trek across the valley only to find you bought the wrong pass!
Photo credit dsearls
1 Comment
So cool. That’s like Denali in Alaska – tourists get so disappointed when they can’t see it, but Denali is so big it makes its own weather. It’s hidden most of the time.
Andy, I need to pick your brain about Europe! I’m going in December and I would love some insight on a few things!