Spend an Afternoon at Madrid’s Prado Museum

One of Madrid’s top cultural sites is the exceptional collection of European art housed at the Museo Nacional del Prado. The collection of close to 8,000 paintings and pieces of art (about 1,500 on display) covers art from the 12th to the early 19th century.

Start your tour early in the day as there’s much to see in this world class museum. A half-day visit should get you through the entire museum, seeing both the collection of masterpieces and gaining an exceptional history of Spanish art.  After, take a leisurely lunch followed by a relaxing stroll through Madrid’s botanical gardens and famous Parque del Retiro.

Built in 1785, the Neo-Classical national art museum (actually two buildings) was first opened as the Royal Museum of Paintings and Sculptures in 1819 by King Ferdinand VII.  The King, after being influenced by his wife who had seen the magnificent public art collection of the Louvre in Paris, opened the private building to the public.  During the War of Independence, the building was used as a headquarters for Napoleonic cavalry.

Originally part of the Spanish Royal Collection, the two most noted masterpieces on display represent the Spanish royalty and a group of drunkards.  Las Meninas by Diego de Velázquez, depicting King Philip IV, his daughter Princess Margarita, and numerous ladies in waiting and members of the Spanish court, is considered a critical piece in the use of light.  Another Velázquez painting, the The Triumph of Bacchus, commonly known as The Drunks, depicts the god of wine drinking with a group of happily smiling drunkards.  An entire room is dedicated to the works Velázquez.

A collection of pieces by Francisco Goya highlights yet another famous Spanish painter. More than 100 of his paintings are spread over the museum’s three floors ground, including a statue of his likeness outside the main entrance.

Two of Goya’s most famous paintings, The Naked Maja and The Clothed Maja led the artist to be accused of obscenity during the Spanish Inquisition in 1815.  Displayed hanging one over the other, the paintings depict an unknown female model reclining on a sofa. In one piece she’s nude; in the other fully clothed.  The first painting resulted in both a new style painting the nude female form as well as the artist to lose his job as a painter of the Spanish court.

The Prado’s expansive collection of paintings from the Spanish School, probably the best in the world under one roof, covers 700 years, dating back to a 12th century Romanesque mural.  Additionally, a collection of Flemish and Dutch painters include two works by Rembrandt, one being a self-portrait.

The famous Greek-born painter El Greco (“The Greek”), who moved from Toledo while in his 30s, heavily influenced the Spanish Renaissance with his dramatic and expressionistic painting style. On display are 34 of El Greco’s religious-themed paintings and portraits including the iconic The Nobleman with a Hand on His Chest.

The sculpture collection, housed mostly on the ground floor, ranges from Greek bronze-works and Roman carvings to later-19th century Italian works.

Don’t skip a visit to the basement for a visit to The Treasure of Dauphin, a collection of decorative arts and jewels, as well as gold and silver pieces from a personal collection of King Louis XIV of France.

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After your tour, take a break for lunch, remembering that the largest meal of the day in Spain is the lunchtime meal, usually served between 1:00 and 4:00 pm.  Here’s two of Madrid’s more popular classic Spanish restaurants, either just a short taxi ride away (under €5.)

• Taberna de la Daniela — 21 General Pardiñas – Metro: Goya (map).  Taberna de la Daniela is popular due to its signature cloth napkins worn bib-style, fresh seafood and the classic Spanish dish – Cocido madrileño, a traditional long-simmered chickpea-based stew prepared with meat, vegetables and potatoes. For a more casual experience, sit at the long but often crowded zinc-top bar.  And save room for a piece of their famous apple pie.
• Casa Ciriaco – Calle Mayor 84 – Metro: La Latina or Ópera (map).   One of Madrid’s traditional taberna-restaurants, in the same family for over 90 years, is Casa Ciriaco.  Just a couple blocks from the Royal Palace, this restaurant has been serving time-tested classic and hearty Castilian food since the 1930s.The unpretentious old tavern ambiance may seem dated with old-fashioned tiled walls lined with patron-donated oil paintings, but think “classic Sunday dinner” coming out of the kitchen.  Their specialties include classic Madrid callos (tripe) and chicken in pepitoria (fricassee) sauce. For dessert, sample their traditional Spanish flan or tipsy cake. The building was the site of an attempted assassination of King Alfonso XIII.  Anti-royalists threw a bomb from the building’s balcony at the passing wedding party, killing many bystanders.  But you won’t find any revolutionaries there now, just a sampling of some of Madrid’s best food.

After lunch, head back to the Real Jardin Botanico, the botanical gardens of Madrid, located just steps from The Prado museum. located in the Plaza de Murillo (Admission: €2,50, Hours: 10:00 am, until 6:00 – 9:00 pm, depending on the season. Metro: Atocha.  (map)

Founded by King Charles III in 1871, the 20-acre park and gardens, include two greenhouses, and a wide variety of flowers, ornamental plants, wild roses, shrubs, and trees from five continents as well as numerous fountains and ponds.

From there walk to the nearby calming escape from city life, the Parque del Retiro (Park of the Pleasant Retreat.) It’s a magnificent 300+ acre park that dates back King Philips IV when it became a retreat for the Royal family in 1632.

The highlight of the park is the Palacio de Cristal (“Crystal Palace“), a glass, tile and iron pavilion.  Other stops that shouldn’t be missed are the beautiful Alfonso XII monument, along with the Rosaleda rose garden with its El Angel Caído (The Falling Angel) statute, the only statute in Europe dedicated to Satan.

Museo Nacional del Prado — Calle Ruiz de Alarcón 23, Madrid, Spain (map)

Dates and Hours – Tuesday – Sunday including holidays: 9:00 am – 8:00 pm, closed Mondays, January 1st, Good Friday, May 1st, and Christmas.  Early closing at 2:00 pm on Dec. 24 & 31, & Jan. 6. No entrance allowed within 30 minutes of closing time.  All galleries close 10 minutes before closing time.

Tickets - Full price: €8, Reduced – non-EU students under 25, large families & holders of youth cards): €4, Free admission: under 18, over 65, disabled, EU students under 25, One-Day Advance Pass (online): €7.

Discount admission cards are available to many of Madrid’s popular sites and  attractions, including:

• The Art Walk card – one admission price admission to Madrid’s top 3 museums – The Prado, Thyssen-Bornemisza and the Reina Sofía Art Centre.
• The Madrid Tourist Card – free admission with no waiting in line to The Prado and more than 40 museums, unlimited Madrid Visión bus rides, all Discover Madrid destinations plus other attractions.  Cards range from 1-3 days – €58 – €90 with a 5% discount if purchased online.

Nearest Metro Subway Stations – Banco de España or Atocha stations.

Images – Charge of the Mamelukes, The Naked Maja, The Clothed Maja, all others from Flickr – Museo Del Prado exterior, Palacio de Cristal, Taberna de la Daniela dish