Baby Boomers, Rome — By on September 13, 2010 at 11:52 pm
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Galleria Borghese: Rome’s Best Small Museum

It took 14 years of restorative work, but it was certainly worth it.  Built in the early 1600s, the Galleria Borghese (map) is now one of the capital’s most opulent palaces and most wonderful museums.  It’s not a big place, but what it lacks in space it makes up for in quality.  While St Peter’s Basilica (map) and the Colosseum (map) are more well-known, those visitors to Rome who are in-the-know have their tickets booked to visit Galleria Borghese.  Here’s why.

Palace History

It’s hard to believe with Rome’s urban sprawl that this stately mansion used to sit on the outskirts of Rome, probably with a lovely view of the rolling countryside!  A vineyard was what started the economic traction here in this area, but in 1605, one of the nephews of the current pope had a vision to turn the land into an extensive set of gardens similar to those that existed during the times of ancient Rome.  No easy task, but the nephew’s vision was realized.  In 1903 the gardens and land were given to the city of Rome for safekeeping, though during the period prior pretty much anyone could go in and explore and use the gardens at their leisure.

The palace itself was built for Scipione Borghese’s personal home, completed between 1613-1615.  During the subsequent centuries the palace fell into disrepair, and then in 1983 an extensive restoration project was planned.  It took fourteen years to repair frescoes, rework the magnificent staircases, and put in place preservation tools to save some of the more fragile pieces of artwork.  When the museum re-opened in 1997, it was to great fanfare, and it’s been one of the most popular visits for travelers ever since.

What You See Today

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The collection that you will see today is the personal collection of the gallery founder, Scipione Borghese.  His methods for amassing one of the world’s most impressionable personal art collections could be considered dubious – he used every trick in the book to get his hands on the pieces he wanted.  At times all it took was befriending some of the world’s greatest sculptors, but at other times he took advantage of the political situation of the times and took paintings of those who were in financial or political trouble.

Today’s collection is actually incomplete.  Napoleon’s sister Pauline married one of the Borghese Princes, and during their marriage she sold off many of the pieces – in particular many of the oldest works in the collection.  You can find many of these down in the Louvre, but ironically what you will find in the Galleria Borghese is a nude portrait of Pauline herself.

Pauline isn’t the only sight to see in the collection – Caravaggio, Raphael, and Bernini are just a few of the names featured.  Many experts in the art field consider Scipione’s taste to be impeccable and say that this collection really is one of the world’s best.  I’m no expert myself, but as a simple traveler I couldn’t help but be wowed by the superb sculptures, picked from the best of the best, and then walking up the winding staircase to be humbled by paintings of the gods and images that just define what I think great art means.

Even a walk in the gardens, which were freshened up in the early 1900s with a distinctive English fair, appreciate the artistic appeal that Scipione wanted.   If you’re feeling the need to be inspired, to change perspectives, or otherwise want to just appreciate great art, Galleria Borghese has all that and more.

Essential Info

Galleria Borghese

Hours:  Open Tuesday – Sunday,  9 am – 7 pm

Nearest Metro: Spagna

Admission:  8.50 EUR

NOTE:  Pre-booking reservations is a MUST! The gallery limits the number of guests and if you just show up you are all but guaranteed not to get in.

Photography is not allowed in the gallery.

Photo Credit: spbutterworth



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