Amsterdam: The Last Days of Summer

The last days of summer are fresh with clear autumnal air to follow soon. September heralds the end of the tourist peak season. Mornings and evenings are cool, but afternoon temperatures are pleasant. Cafés continue to have outdoor seating. The trees begin to shed their leaves and no longer hide the 17th century gables of the mansions that line the canals. Crowds are not as bad as in July and August and queues at popular tourist attractions dwindle. Grab this opportunity and visit Van Gogh Museum (map) and Anne Frankhuis (map) or go on a canal boat trip.

Dam Square (map) buzzes with activity. Trams rattle past. Tourists and locals rest at the foot of the National Monument, eating sandwiches or French fries from a paper cone or simply people-watch. The Royal Palace (map), which the Dutch Royal family uses for official functions, takes up one side of the square. The New Church (map) is on the right, not so new after all but a 15th century Gothic structure. There is no spire atop the church because money ran out before it could be completed.

Tourists snap photos of each other and of Neptune, one of the mime artists that claim a spot in front of the Royal Palace. His limbs glow with frozen life. His eyelids never twitch. He stands still as the night. It is only €1 to take his photo. When tourists try to take his picture without paying, he turns his head and hides behind his elbow, a ruined photo for free.

Outdoor cafés continue to set up seats, but sun umbrellas remain unfurled. If there is no rain, the heated terraces bring out the locals who enjoy their meal al fresco. By late afternoon, the terraces fill up with Amsterdammers who sip chardonnay or gulp down Heineken and munch hapjes, or little snacks.

Amsterdammers have parked their bikes against the bridge railings. Tourists wait to board a boat for a tour through Amsterdam’s prettiest canals, lined with 17th century canal houses. They will see Amsterdam’s widest house – 22 m across (72 ft), known as Trippenhuis. This mansion was commissioned by the Trip brothers who made their fortune in metals, artillery and ammunition.

The Red Light District never sleeps. Evening is the best time to wander along Oudezijds Achterburgwal, but many tourists also amble through during the day. Peep shows, porn shops (sex) bars and live sex shows stand cheek-by-jowl to stately canal houses, Salvation Army Headquarters and hotels. Women in lace-trimmed lingerie sit on high stools behind special windows which they hire by the hour. In the picture, the closed red curtains of the house next to Moulin Rouge (map) suggest the lady of pleasure is at work. Young male visitors gawk until their eyes fall out. Taking photos of the ladies will teach them the latest Dutch four letter word.

Boating in Amsterdam is great fun. Tourists along with locals rent a boat for an hour or an afternoon. There is a boat for all ages and preferences – choices include two-person pedalos, luxurious vessels and vintage sailing boats. Vessels under 15 metres and slower than 20 kilometres per hour do not need a boating license. The boat in the pictures glides through Oudezijds Achterburgwal in the Red Light District. Theatre Casa Rosso (map) presents a non-stop live show that lasts one hour and includes girl-girl, girl-guy, solo and audience participation. The show is well choreographed, an eye-opener and not seedy at all. Come with an open mind towards sex and you will not be disappointed.

Photo credits: personal collection