City Escapes: Tepoztlán

Believed to be the birthplace of Quetzalcóatl, the Aztec serpent god, the small magical mountain town of Tepoztlán makes an excellent weekend getaway from the capital.  Tepoztlán uniquely blends well-preserved indigenous cultures with New Age beliefs and spirituality.  Many of the town elders speak Nahuatl, the ancient language of the Aztecs, and Nahuatl continues to be taught in some of the local schools.  Meanwhile, foreigners are flocking to the town and the Mexican government continues to promote tourism to Tepoztlán as part of its Magic Towns of Mexico initiative.

Tepoztlán Craft Market, Morelos, Mexico

Believed to be a magical place, Tepoztlán claims to have a special creative energy that makes it popular among writers, artists and creative types.  Alternative medicine shops, homeopathic pharmacies, health food stores, psychics and aura cleansers can be found around every corner, many owned and operated by colorful expats.  Over the past few decades Tepoztlán has come to be known as somewhat of an international post-hippie mecca and astrologers frequently travel to Tepoztlán to investigate reports of UFO sightings.

One of the main attractions in Tepoztlán is the weekend crafts market, considered to be one of the best in central Mexico.  Sunday is by far the busiest, most animated market day and a popular time for tourists visiting on day trips from Mexico City. Vendors line the streets displaying a variety of folk art, handicrafts, ceramics, pottery, weavings, clothing and jewelry.  Food stands sell everything from fruits and vegetables to tacos and micheladas, or spicy Mexican beers.  Frequent fiestas take place in the town with the most festive being the annual Carnival celebrations and the all-night celebration on September 7th followed by the Catholic Fiesta del Templo on the following day.

The Tepozteco Pyramid (Piramide de Tepozteco) is located 2.5km from the center of Tepoztlán. Of that distance, 2km is along rugged, steep stone staircases that snake up the side of the cliff.  From the city center the pyramid is visible as nothing more than a white speck on the top of the mountain side. As far as I know, the only way to reach the pyramid is to hike up the hillside. It’s a difficult trek, but the impressive views overlooking the town below are well worth the effort.

Tepozteco Pyramid, Tepotzlán, Morelos, Mexico

The Tepozteco Pyramid is not nearly as large as some of the other archaeological sites in central Mexico but the fact that it remains so isolated and difficult to reach make it all the more impressive.  And even more impressive is the fact that there are people working up at the cliff-top site selling tickets (M$34/$3) and beverages.  Imagine having that as your daily commute!

Of course it’s possible to visit Tepoztlán as a day trip from the capital, but you’ll enjoy your visit more if you spend a night or two in town.  There are numerous places to stay and eat in Tepoztlán.  Consider making reservations in advance if your stay will include Friday or Saturday night.  The Posada del Tepozteco is a highly recommended inn with magnificent views overlooking the town.  Rates begin at $208 per night.  There are also several more economical choices in town.

Tepoztlán (map) is located 80km (50 miles) south of Mexico City and just 18km (11 miles) north of Cuernavaca in the state of Morelos.  Hourly first class buses run between Mexico City’s South Bus Terminal at Taxqueña (map) and Tepoztlán between 5am and 8pm daily.  The ride takes approximately 1.5 hours and costs $5 each way.

Photo Credit: Laura Nazimiec