Great Escapades: Colonia del Sacramento

Just over an hour boat ride from Buenos Aires (map), across the chocolate coloured waters of the Rio de la Plata, and a world away in atmosphere, Colonia del Sacramento (map) in Uruguay provides a wonderfully restful escape from the frenzy pace of Buenos Aires. Unless your time is very limited, this trip is really worth doing.

Colonia was founded by Portuguese Seaman in 1680, ceded to the Spaniards in 1750 and became a full-blown Spanish colony in 1777. Things haven’t changed a lot since then. The old town is a protected UNESCO world heritage site these days.

A walk along the riverside (Calle Florida) from the ferry port takes you past the old railway station, over a drawbridge and through the ruined gateway, last remnant of the city walls to the Plaza Mayor. You’ll have time to wander the cobbled streets lined with pretty colonial buildings, visit the historic Iglesia Matriz (Uruguay’s oldest church ), find a restaurant for lunch (you might like to try a bottle of Tanat, Uruguay’s answer to Malbec), potter around the little shops, visit one of the small museums, take a walk into the new town maybe. It is a day for ambling and taking it easy. Colonia’s sleepy atmosphere is very infectious. Just try not to miss the ferry.

The river crossing is an experience in itself, after you’ve left Buenos Aires far behind you it is over an hour before you sight land ahead. You also get to see how the river got its name. Rio de la Plata or Silver River even on the sunniest day the water is the colour of dull silver plate.

If you are only going for the day, the fast catamaran is the way to go, though it is expensive. Crossings are very well patronised, so advance booking is advisable at busy times, summer and holidays. You can do this from the ferry terminal at Puerto Madero, or by phone with a credit card. You’ll need your passport, all immigration formalities are conducted within the ferry terminals on either side. Argentine pesos are accepted everywhere so there is no need to change money.

Photo credits: kevin.j , gusuval and  jimmyrocks