Amsterdam: The Chimes of Westerkerk

The chimes of Westerkerk reverberate across Prinsengracht canal, then the sound ebbs away. This musical intermezzo makes me think of what Anne Frank wrote in her diary on 11th June 1942, when she and her family had been in hiding for only three days. Het Achterhuis or the Annex where the family spent almost two years was right behind Westerkerk.

Father and mother can’t get used to the chiming of Westertoren clock, which tells us the time every quarter of an hour. Not me, I liked it from the start. It sounds reassuring, especially at night.

The chimes have not changed since Anne Frank wrote these lines. With perfect regularity, the bells still sound every fifteen minutes.

The square bell tower of Westerkerk

When Amsterdam expanded in the 16th and early 17th century, homes were constructed along the newly dug canals. Not only houses were needed but also churches. Westerkerk became the showcase Protestant church for wealthy Amsterdammers who lived along Herengracht. Hendrick de Keyser designed the church. Building began in 1620 and finished in 1631. De Keyser copied his design of the Zuiderkerk but increased the scale.

De Keyser died in 1621 and his son Pieter finished the job adding the square bell tower. Although it looks elegant, De Keyser senior would never have approved. He would most likely have designed a hexagonal or octagonal spire.

Westerkerk clock tower soars 85m (278ft) up in the sky and is Amsterdam’s tallest building. As I could not see the top of the spire from Westermarkt, at the foot of the church, I walked a few metres along Keizersgracht for a better view. The bridal-cake-shaped tower is topped by the imperial crown of Hapsburg Emperor Maximillian and sports XXX, a triple cross. You have probably seen this emblem all over the city because the tourist industry has embraced it as their logo.

After taking a few photos, I ambled back to Westermarkt, pushed open the heavy church door and entered the church. I found the interior slightly disappointing and in stark contrast with the decorative exterior and elegant clock tower. Bare and plain is exactly what the Calvinist congregation wanted the church to be. The only features to note are the tall windows, the soaring columns and the wooden pulpit. The windows were clear and unstained in order to bring in the light of god. The original organ sits at the far end of the church. Gerard Lairesse, a pupil of Rembrandt, decorated the panels with biblical scenes. When Westerkerk was built, it was the largest church in the Netherlands. As far as I know it still is. The vaulted roof is constructed of wood because Amsterdam’s marshy soil would not allow the use of heavy stone.

The floor is a carpet of graves, most only with a number. Some graves are adorned with carvings, but only wealthy people could afford this luxury. I tried to read the worn inscriptions, but did not find famous names. Rembrandt was buried in this church in a paupers’ tomb. Although his death is recorded in the church register, the actual spot was not. It is not likely that his bones are still in the church because it was customary to clear paupers’ tombs after twenty years to make place for others.

I felt energetic enough to climb the 186 steps up the bell tower for a panoramic view. On the way up, I passed the chamber where watchmen slept between keeping lookout for fires, and I saw bell ringing equipment and the bells themselves. Once on top I could see right down into the canals and across the rooftops. I was very happy that there was no wind because the spire sways 3 cm (1.2 in) a good breeze. Then it was down again along the steep narrow stairs.

Westerkerk

QUICK FACTS
The Westerkerk is the main gathering place of Amsterdam’s Dutch Reformed Community.

WHAT: Westerkerk
WHERE: Prinsengracht 282
WHEN: from April to November, closed on Sunday.
HOW TO GET THERE: tram 13, 14 or 17 to Westermarkt stop.

The tour to the tower runs every thirty minutes and involves climbing incredibly narrow staircases, some more like ladders. Only six people are allowed on each tour. The cost is €6, but the view is worth the money and the climb.

photo credit: personal collection