Stroll Through Amsterdam’s Red Light District by Day

Oudezijds Achterburgwal is right in the centre of Amsterdam’s Red Light District. It is a narrow canal lined by sex shops and special windows where women in lace-trimmed lingerie sit on high stools, facing the street, manicuring their nails, reading magazines or chatting on their cell phones. If the curtains are closed, it means they are at work. This part of Amsterdam comes alive late afternoon. It is not risky or dangerous. Peep until your eyes fall out, but don’t take photos unless you want to learn some Dutch four-letter-words.

If you explore the Red Light District during daylight hours, you will notice quaint houses with beautiful facades that are obscured by neon lights at night.  Our stroll starts at Oudekerksplein.  In front of number 23, embedded in the pavement is a bronze woman’s breast and a hand caressing it. Walk round the church and you will find the statue of Belle. It was erected in honour of the millions of people around the world who earn their money in prostitution.

Let’s now go inside Oude Kerk, or Old Church.

Old Church or Oude Kerk

Stroll across the tombstones and look up at the gilded ceiling, brocaded pillars and stained glass windows. Don’t miss the inscription above the sacristy door; Marry in Haste, Repent at Leisure. The church is also the venue of the World Press Photo Exhibition which comprises prize-winning photographs from the world’s biggest photo-journalism competition.

Just past the church is Trompetterssteeg, Amsterdam’s narrowest alley, only one metre wide, always crowded and full of sex windows and ogling tourists

Keep the canal on you right and stroll to the far end of the Oudezijds Achterburgwal to Museum Amstelkring. Climb the narrow staircase to the secret church in the attic; Our Lord in the Attic. It recalls the days when Roman Catholics were not allowed to practice their religion freely. The step-gabled house next to the museum is one of the many leaning buildings in Amsterdam. The tilt is deliberate and allows goods to be winched up. Most Amsterdam houses have narrow winding staircases. Furniture cannot be brought up via the stairs. There is no risk of the building collapsing because a law dating back to 16th century restricted the lean to a 1:25 ratio.

Look up at architectural details along the façades. Two diving dolphins support the gable of number 19, just across the water from Museum Amstelkring.

two diving dolphins

Stoofsteegbrug is the humpback bridge about half way the canal. Count the bicycles that are secured to the bridge railings. Twenty or thereabouts? Amsterdam is a bicycle-friendly city, not only because it is compact but also because of the wine-red bike lanes and the absence of elevations. Amsterdammers own 550,000 bikes of which 80,000 are stolen each year. That’s why bikes are double locked and secured to lamp posts and bridge railings.

After exploring some of the wonders of Amsterdam’s Red Light District, relax in Eetcafe ‘ t Loosje. Sip hot chocolate with a big dollop of whipped cream. Their cherry pie is the best in Amsterdam, sweet and soft.  

WHAT: Oude Kerk
WHERE: Oudekerksplein 23
OPENING HOURS: Monday – Saturday 11.00 – 17.00, Sunday 13.00 – 17.00

WHAT: Museum Amstelkring
WHERE: Oudezijds Voorburgwal 40, Amsterdam
OPENING HOURS: Mon -Sat. 10.00 – 17.00
Sundays and public holidays 13.00 – 17.00

WHAT: Eetcafe ‘ t Loosje
WHERE: Nieuwmarkt 32
OPENING HOURS: 11.00 – 17.00

photo credits: personal collection