Amsterdam: Palace without Royals

Take the number of days in a year. Put one before and nine after it, and you will know how many wooden piles were rammed deep into Amsterdam’s soggy soil to prevent the Royal Palace at Dam Square from collapsing. This is what my primary school teacher taught me. She surely talked about the functions of the palace, but all I remember is 13659 wooden piles.

Royal Palace is a misnomer because the Royal family does not live here. They use the building for official functions. Queen Beatrix lives in Huis ten Bosch in The Hague. Crown prince Willem Alexander and family live in Wassenaar.

Royal Palace at Dam Square

I pass the Royal Palace almost every day and just take it for granted. That’s why I decided to have a closer look. The Palace takes up the entire west side of Dam Square. The building started out as Amsterdam’s new town hall, the largest in 17th century Europe.

When in 1648, architect Jacob van Campen showed his design to the City Council, the Calvinist majority was dead against it because this secular building would dwarf the New Church (Nieuwe Kerk), also on Dam Square. Earthly values should not preside over spiritual values.

The newly built town hall was a sparklingly white building. Today’s deep grey colour is not caused by pollution but a chemical reaction of the sandstone. A dark blackish grey layer protects the stone when it gets older.

Amsterdam Town Hall painted by G.A. Berckheyde in 1673

I stepped a bit closer and took out my binoculars to examine the bas-relief pediment. The allegorical Amsterdam city maiden holds an olive branch and Mercury staff, both symbols of peace. Swirling sea gods and water deities pay homage to her, while three figures symbolising Prudence, Peace and Justice look on approvingly.

I walked to the back of the building. Here the pediment is even more interesting and more opulent. The four then-known continents: Europe, Africa, America and Asia bring Amsterdam city maiden commodities that were actually traded in 17th century Amsterdam. Allegorical Europe carries the cornucopia, symbol of fertility. Next to her frolics a horse, symbol of power. A naked woman wearing a sunhat and bead necklace represents Africa. A snake, a lion and an elephant accompany her. The woman in the turban personifies Asia. She brings spices and tulips. America is shown as a man in feathered headgear. Near him an alligator, a crocodile, a monkey and a little boy carrying a bundle of sugar cane.

Pediment at the rear

I ambled back to Dam Square and expected to find a monumental central doorway. There is none. Entrance to the palace is through a measly door, more fitted for tradesmen than for Royals. A grand front door was left out deliberately in case an angry mob would storm the building in response to unpopular decisions taken by the City Council.

I climbed a broad staircase to the first floor. Originally the way up was via two narrow staircases, easier to defend against a rioting mob. When Napoleon Bonaparte’s brother, Louis, was appointed King of Holland, Louis Napoleon adopted the Town Hall as his Royal Palace. Louis converted the narrow staircases into wide sweeping steps more suitable to receive Royal guests.

At the top of the stairs, the Burgerzaal stretched before of me. The hall occupies the heart of the building. It is 30 m high and runs the length of the building. By virtue of its celestial floor maps, this airy white-marbled hall represents the universe contained in one single room, with Amsterdam at the centre. The clock on the far wall is constantly set to eleven o’clock, indicating that justice is possible also at the last hour. The chairs, tables and even the grand piano look like doll house furniture so vast is the hall. Most clocks, chandeliers and Empire furniture date from 1808 when Louis Bonaparte settled in. He also added the balcony room where important announcements were made. The last time the Dutch Royals stood on this balcony waving at the crowd was on the occasion of Crown Prince Willem Alexander and Princess Maxima’s wedding in 2002. Thousands of people gathered on Dam Square saw the couple’s first and millions of others caught the intimate moment on television.

Scattered throughout the palace are marble reliefs with witty touches. Caryatids look bored with supporting cross beams. Cocks are fighting and Apollo tries to find a solution to their dispute. Icarus takes a tumble outside the bankrupt’s Court. He is surrounded by hungry rats scurrying about. Some of them nibble at empty coffers and unpaid bills.

Outside again, I looked up. On the roof Atlas staggers under his burden, a 1,000-kilogram copper globe. What will happen if he gets an itchy back?

WHAT: Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace)
WHERE: Dam Square (map)
Opening hours: 12.00 – 17.00, unless there are Royal functions. Consult the events calendar.
Admission fee: €7,50

photo credit:
Wapedia Town Hall,  Royal Palace
Personal collection, Rear Pediment