Edinburgh Nightlife

Edinburgh’s not world-renowned for its nightlife scene, except perhaps during Hogmanay (December) and the Festival (August) when the city swells with visitors looking to explore the city’s charms.  During those times, pretty much everywhere is happening.  But when the city isn’t packed to capacity, there’s still a few distinct Edinburgh experiences that keep people coming back for more.  Here’s a few of my favourites – the city has hundreds of bars and clubs, so this is only a sampling of what’s on offer, organised by experience:

The Real Ale Bars

We start our tour of Edinburgh nightlife with a fray into some of the more civilised and orderly establishments:  The Edinburgh Real Ale Bar.  Some Brits refuse to drink any beer except a real ale.  A simplified definition (from the previous link to Wikipedia):

unfiltered and unpasteurised beer which is conditioned (including secondary fermentation) and served from a cask without additional nitrogen or carbon dioxide pressure

Real ales aren’t usually as cold as your traditional lager, but they have less preservatives in them.  One thing is for sure:  either you’ll love ‘em or you’ll hate ‘em.  Be sure to try one when you’re in Edinburgh – some of the best beers made in Edinburgh are real ales.

We’ve already mentioned The Malt and Hops as one of the best pubs in Edinburgh, but here are a few others for you to try:

• Doctors:  a small place, frequented by students from the University of Edinburgh.  The uni building across the street from the pub is related to doctor’s studies, hence the name.
• The Cumberland Bar:  This is an absolute classic, a real new Town gem.  What I love about it is that it’s just like it is described in the 44 Scotland Street books by Alexander Mccall Smith.  Tons of real ales on tap.
• Canon’s Gait:  This is my preferred Royal Mile haunt; it’s towards the Parliament end of the mile, and it is very quiet in here sometimes.  Not sure why as it is a beautiful pub and always several delicious ales fresh and waiting for you.

The Nightclubs

Ahh, the nightclub.  Another Edinburgh experience.  We go from the cozy real ale bars to the loud, glam, and glitzy nightclub scene.  Picture suits, skits, and champagne, because that’s what you’ll get.  It is a very popular scene, though I’m not sure if it is one that is all that accessible to tourists.  The main problem is that the venues seem to change names on a monthly basis (the one pictured above has changed many times, I have no idea if it is still the Ivory Lounge.)

There’s two main places you’ll find the nightclub scene in Edinburgh:

• George Street:  many of the places here serve both as clubs and restaurants.  Top recommendations would be Tigerlilly (great for champagne and romantic ambience) and Ivory Lounge (it may change name, but the music is always loud and cocktails always strong)
• Cowgate:  this is where Edinburgh stays up late at night.  The most popular stop is Espionage - one of those nightclubs with many floors that you can get lost in.  It’s actually so big it connects with a bar at the top, on George IV bridge!

It’s not exactly a nightclub, but the best cocktails in town are at Grape; as the name suggest, they are well known for their wine, but wow they make some killer cocktails in gigantic glasses and they’re cheap!

The Live Music

Glasgow is the first UNESCO City of Music so if you’re a music lover, be sure to take a daytrip there to explore the scene.  We’ve actually covered the underground music scene in Edinburgh, but I’d be remiss not to include it here so you know all of your nightlife options as this one is a popular one.

Whistlebinkies continues to be my favourite in this category.  While it can get crowded and rowdy, it is far more civilised by comparison to other establishments.  You can also stay in the back room where it’s not quite as loud.  (And, of course, the music is top notch!)

If you want a jazz night, don’t hesitate to check out Jazz bar – excellent setting and great jazz.

The Stag and Hen Nights

Ahh, yes.  Many a local and tourist has quaked in fear at the approach of a massive stag or hen do, as the drunks wreak havoc on the city’s nightlife scene.  Many pubs and restaurants actually ban them!  (Note for our American readers:  stags = bachelors, hens = bachelorettes).

You want to make sure that you avoid these types at all cost; they’ll be well over-served by this point and usually quite eager to involve you in their latest mischief.   Classic hangouts include:

• The Pubic Triangle:  Yes, there is such a place.  It’s all strip clubs, so I suspect if you find yourself here, you knew what you were getting into.
• The Grassmarket:  Some venues are fighting back by banning Stags and Hens, but there are plenty of places that aren’t.  Still, if you can find a quiet zone, I love The Lot or The Last Drop (named so as a nod to the last public hanging that took place outside their front door here)
• The Standing Order:  This place almost deserves a category of its own.  It is known as probably the cheapest pub in Edinburgh.  It’s also known as the loudiest, the roudiest, and the stinkiest.  Save your pennies at your own risk.

The Edinburgh Classics

I’d like to close with some Edinburgh establishments that are just real gems, with charm and charisma and a little touch of that something special that you just won’t find elsewhere:

• The Stand Comedy Club:  they have events throughout the week and weekends, though be sure to come early before showtimes to get a seat.  Limited menu, but unlimited laughs.  Best comedy scene in town.
• Jekyll and Hyde:  Like having a drink in the Frankenstein mansion.  Bloody brilliant.  (They do decent pub food too!)  Look for the fire lamp out front, you can’t miss it.
• Elephant Cafe: This is certainly no secret, as the tourists see the “Harry Potter written here” banner out front and come running in.  But this place is open fairly late most nights and it’s pretty quiet then.  A great menu, cheap wine list, and lovely view of the castle.

That’s a sample of the nightlife scene in Edinburgh.  As I say, your mileage might vary, as everyone’s tastes are different.  Just take it easy, know when to stop, and play it safe!

Photos by rob.dunfey, theedinburghblog, marcusthorsen, cyrildoussen, kirinqueen