Review: Treating my palate at Feitoria

In the most recent five stars luxury-design hotel in Lisbon (Altis Belém), dedicated to the Discoveries, it’s no wonder Feitoria Restaurant offers a bit of the world to the visitor.

The Chef himself (Chef José Cordeiro) has worked in many top restaurants, from London to Tokyo, and made it back to Portugal to receive a Michelin Star in 2004/2005 and again in 2005/2006. Since Feitoria was opened, in March 2009, it has been introducing his autor cuisine with a distinguished reflection on national gastronomy, using top quality ingredients, but with a clear touch of international influences that keep to the motive – Discoveries.

As you enter Feitoria, you pierce into a sophisticated restaurant with outstanding riverfront views, right between Torre de Belém and Padrão dos Descobrimentos (map). At the end of the room, a wine refrigerator covers a wall and shows some of the 350 wine references they proudly announce. This makes part of the excellent wine bar they show, and is definitely more than enough a reason to visit. The menu too is select and shows not only a description of each dish but also the preparation time and the recommended wine. Everything we were given was simply stupendous.

To have a wider understanding of this top Chef cuisine, we went for his 5 course degustation menu (€50 without drinks). We were first given a wide selection of bread of which I have to mention their terrific sweet herbs Broa (corn bread). Soon came the first starter, a true explosive moment made of egg yolk involved on a thin fried slice bread with truffle and salt. An outstanding game of textures and flavours perfectly combined. Their Green peas soup with chorizo scented lobster and purple onion compote (€19) has been a favourite since day one and we do have to agree on that. As well as the Red bream with aspargus, foie gras and razor clam (€24,50). A tangerine sorbet cleared the our taste for the recent dishes, Game Triology of venission, hare and wild boar (€24) and Salted codfish with tomato confit, chickpeas purée, green olives ravioli (€22,50). Although I do agree with the favourites, these were just as a true experience as the others. The meal was served with excellent wine served by the glass, suggested by Feitoria and I do advise you to do so, since the wine list is extensive.

Granny Smith Apple Trilogy (€7,5) made of apple cramble, apple ice-cream and apple chamusa, was provided with tea and coffee, served on beautiful trendy-design cups.

The menu changes every 4 months but some of the dishes are requested to stay. Here are other most wanted – Memories of a traditional green cale soup (€8,5), Roasted Kid shoulder with country-style stew (€24) and Red Mullet fillet that is not on the current list but will be back on the next one. For this summer there’s also a promise of more starters and less dishes for a sharing meal.

Opened Tuesday to Saturday, from 12h30 to 15h30 and from 19h30 to 23h

Average meal: €45 without drinks

http://www.altishotels.com/
Reservations through 210 400 207 or reservations@altisbelemhotel.com

Photo Credits: Alexandre Kühl Oliveira