Las Vegas — By Lynn Goya on November 11, 2009 at 6:26 am
Filed under: 50+, celebrity chef, Family Friendly, featuredarticle, food & wine, neighborhood restaurant, Vegas top chef

Review: Ventano Italian Grill & Seafood

Executive Chef and Owner Arnauld Briand is one of those chefs who paid his dues before venturing out on his own. Briand became a culinary apprentice at the Paris Hilton while studying at the French Culinary Institute, L’Ecole Hoteliere, before he perfected his classic French cooking at Societe Lenotre, the largest pastry shop in Europe and later as the private chef for General Simon, France’s last five-star general. He was only 24 when he became the executive chef at Cellar in the Sky, the gourmet room at the World Trade Center, where he quickly came to be recognized as one of the top chefs in Manhattan.

The next few years were a tug of war between Las Vegas and Manhattan. Caesars Palace snapped him up to become chef de cuisine for the late Palace Court which repeatedly won a Mobil Travel Guide Four Star Award under his stewardship; then Manhattan reclaimed him to become executive chef for the famed Rainbow Room’s three restaurants; finally, Desert Inn lured him back to serve as executive chef over the resort’s four restaurants. Finally, he struck out on his own.

A stand alone restaurant, Ventano’s is large, comfortable and versatile. With a spectacular view of the Strip and Spring Mountains, the spacious, ivy-draped outdoor porch makes a picturesque setting for weddings and other special events. Inside, an oyster bar and separate cocktail lounge (where meal service is offered) attract the lunch, happy hour and late night crowd. As expected, Briand’s wine list is superb and Ventano’s offers wine dinners to his list of events designed to attract and thank local customers who sign up for his mailing list.

Despite the romantic setting, Briand seems particularly pleased that Ventano’s is also a family restaurant and is happy to offer smaller portions or simpler fare to younger palates. A favorite for young and old is a signature appetizer Grilled Shrimp on a Stone ($11.95) a half pound of gently spiced marinated shrimp with a sizzling presentation. Beef Carpaccio ($8.25) combines paper thin slices of raw beef with mustard oil, shaved parmesan tangy capers on a bed of lettuce. Oysters on a Half Shell ($19.95/dozen) and other seafood is flown in daily. Muscles ($8.50) and clams ($11.50) are both served with either a tomato basil sauce or a wine and garlic butter sauce. The lobster bisque soup ($9.50) contrasts chunky bits of lobster with a silky cream broth served in a bread bowl. Briand drizzles olive oil, then grills lettuce leaves for his Grilled Heart of Romaine ($9.50) then layers the leaves with prosciutto and gorgonzola.

Ventanos offers a full menu of pastas and risottos as well as veal, chicken, seafood and lamb. The Traditional Shrimp Scampi ($18.95) is a subtle combination of lemon and garlic butter served over risotto. The Costoletti Di Maiale ($19.95) simmers baby back ribs in honey, balsamic vinegar and bay leaves then dishes them up with garlic roasted potatoes. Ventano’s offers wine pairing by the glass, including impressive dessert pairings.

Ventano’s

191 South Arroyo Grande Blvd. (at Horizon Ridge), Henderson (map it)

702-944-4848

LAYER CAKE WINES DINNER AND WINE PAIRING (reservations required)

Saturday, November 21, 2009

6:30 p.m.

$60.00 plus tax and gratuity

LAYER CAKE WINES DINNER AND WINE PAIRING Menu

FIRST COURSE

CRAB STUFFED MUSHROOMS

2008 MALBEC

MENDOZA~ARGENTINA

SECOND COURSE

ROASTED BUTTERNUT SQUASH SOUP

WHIPPED PISTACHIO CREAM

2007 PRIMITIVO-ZINFANDEL

PUGLIA~ITALY

THIRD COURSE

GREEN DUPUY LENTILS