North London – an architectural visit

Central London gets all the headlines. But some of the most interesting architecture lies outside the centre – particularly in the field of modern domestic architecture. So I was interested to read Diamond Geezer’s account of his Open House weekend – spent in Highgate and Tottenham, rather than the architectural fleshpots of Westminster and the City.

The Markfield Beam Engine [Tottenham Hale, South Tottenham or Seven Sisters tube] is an amazing piece of industrial heritage. It comes from the days when industrial design was still motivated by the desire to construct engines that could rival Greek or Roman temples in their dignity and beauty – before sheer functionalism took over. Its elegant columns have an engineering purpose too, though – they make the engine’s load bearing structure independent of the little brick building that covers it, except for the flywheel which you can just see in the background of the photo. It’s just been restored, and still operates under steam.

The other place I noted from the list was Hornsey Town Hall – right up my street, an early Modernist classic with much of its original furnishing in place. It’s due to be refurbished, with the council chamber being restored for public use, an arthouse cinema, and retail space as well as space for creative businesses. Despite its rather stern exterior, with a tall chimney-like tower, it’s actually a mellow space – full of light, and using natural materials such as the warm wood that makes the council chamber feel pleasantly unbureaucratic.

The problem with London, though, is that you need to do your research if you’re going to find hidden treasures like these. I had the immense advantage when I went to New York of being able to get hold of a lovely little pocket-sized book on the city’s architecture, with gazetteer entries for every building of note throughout the city. I’ve never found anything quite like that for London – not for the Greater London area, anyway. So if you’re intrigued by these lesser known treasures, start out with the Open House site – though remember, many of these buildings are not open during the rest of the year. And check out Diamond Geezer too; he really knows his London.

photo by Sludgegulper/Felix O on flickr