REVIEW: Tavares–Ultimate dining experience in Bairro Alto

After going through a darker period, Tavares (former Tavares Rico), Portugal oldest restaurant (second in Iberian Peninsula), is back to the top under the exquisite guidance of the young chef José Avillez.

Dining at a palatial atmosphere in its elegant golden decoration, with mirrors covering the walls and crystal chandeliers lighting the room is a one-in-a-lifetime experience in it self. Add to it one of Portuguese best chefs and it can well be the ultimate dining experience in Lisbon.

Ever since Tavares Rico was founded in 1784, the nb 35 at Rua da Misericórdia, just off Chiado and entering Bairro Alto (map), has welcomed the national and international cultural and political elite. Musicians, politicians, actors, singers and so on shared one thing through out the centuries, taste one of the best meals in town.

After passing through some of the greatest cuisine masters in the world (Ferran Adrià, Alain Ducasse and Claude Trois Gros among others), the young Chef José Avillez settled in Tavares in 2008 to offer the city his haut cuisine interpretation to contemporary Portuguese culinary. The results are outstanding with perfect symbioses of tastes and textures and superb presentation.

Still, there’s no doubt that this is a luxury restaurant. An average meal, without drinks, can easily reach €60. To a Pan fried fois gras with pear (€27,45), add the recommended poached Sea Bass (€35,85) and you’ve made it already.

To have the opportunity to expand our experience, we opt for a degustation menu (€75), consisting of 3 starters, 3 mains (small portions, obviously) and 2 desserts. You can extend this further with the Surprise Menu (€95), adding another 2 dishes.

I have to say that I was delighted with the home made bread (specially the sweet potato corn bread which I highly recommend), even before the complementary starter arrived. The journey then begun, taking us on a trip through the senses and memories. To the Mist tide in a foggy morning, a delicious sea food dish that played perfectly between the sea salted and the lemon flavour, we were then served Lobster with avocado cannelloni and gazpacho that flawlessly combined. Soon arrived the most complex dish of the evening, The hen that laid the golden egg’s, an egg cooked at 64º, with a golden paper laid on top, darkened bread and chick peas sauce, a combination and presentation that reminded land… The show continued with At the beach in a bornfire, exquisite red mullet with charcoal flavours and liver sauce, Pork with clams and a truly wonderful Sea bass in sea water. For desserts, another great arrangement of Raspberry sorbet with wasabi that followed Strawberry and basil, white cheese and black pepper.

The wine list is impressive and they serve wine by the glass. Portions were just right and at the end of the meal, after 3 hours, we were happily ready to go. Service is attentive, sometimes it may even get a bit over the top, but I think it’s part of the deal. This is a must do… if you can afford it, that is.

Opened Tuesday to Saturday from 12h30pm to 2h30 pm and from 7h30pm to 11pm

Where: Rua da Misericórdia, 35

Contact for reservations: 213422112

www.restaurantetavares.pt