Santa Teresa – off the tourist track

The leafy hillside neighbourhood of Santa Teresa may be a long way from the beach, but what it lacks in sun-bathing opportunities it more than makes up for in charm and atmosphere.

Awash with crumbling colonial mansions, Santa Teresa is regarded as Rio’s artiest neighborhood, and here you will find any number of artists, musicians, actors and others of a similarly bohemian disposition.

But while ‘Santa’, as it is affectionately known, boasts plenty of opportunity for exploring, most visitors are content to wander around the main cluster of bars, shops and restaurants that surround Largo do Guimaraes. This is Santa’s main square and the site of many an impromptu street party, but it’s well worth taking the time to get off the tourist trail.

The best way to arrive in Santa is to take the bonde (tram) that rattles its way from Centro, across the Lapa Arches and up the winding cobbled streets of this antique neighbourhood. There are two lines – one heading to Paulo Mattos and the other to Dois Irmaoes. (The destination is highlighted on the front of the tram). While both pass Largo do Guimaraes, both lines offer good sightseeing opportunities if you stay on board a little longer.

The Paulo Mattos line will take you to Largo dos Neves, a charming little square surrounded by little bar/restaurants and framed by a picture-perfect whitewashed church. The local bars all offer good food and a relaxed atmosphere, and the square itself is a lovely place to just sit and absorb the surroundings. HEad here on a weekend evening and, provided it’s not raining, you’ll find a booth selling delicious batidas (sugar cane rum mixed with condensed milk and everything from coconut or passion fruit to chocolate) for just R$2. My personal favourite is the maracuja (passion fruit), while a friend likes to mix the chocolate and peanut versions!

Beware, these are deceptively drinkable – they may taste like a decadent dessert, but they really pack a punch!

Largo dos Neves is situated at the end of the bonde line, so you don’t need to worry about missing your stop! To return to the centre of Santa Teresa, just follow the tramline or jump back on board the bonde.

The other tram line runs past Castelinho 38, a Disney-esque ‘mini castle’ complete with fairytale turrets, that today serves as a guest house. It makes a great photo, so have your camera at the ready (although, of course, the usual personal security measures apply). Call the tram to a stop by tugging the blue cord overhead, and jump off in front of the castle. From here it is a short walk to some more good eating and drinking options. For healthy, organic snacks, there’s a pocket-sized cafe called Ora Pra Nobis. Pretty much next door is Bar do Bonde – a cosy three-level bar with snug sofas, cheap prices and very good Arab food. There’s regular live music here in the evenings too. On the other side, you’ll find Mike’s Haus – a German-owned bar and restaurant serving traditional Bavarian food and imported beers.

While it’s still light, you can walk off your meal by continuing down the tram track – you’ll pass some very interesting graffiti art from local collective Santa Crew, as well as some stunning views.

Santa Teresa’s hillside location means it is surrounded by favela, but visitors need not be overly concerned about safety here. As always, keep valuables out of sight and don’t dress in a flashy fashion, but don’t let safety worries put you visiting the neighborhood – that really would be a crime!