Public (in)conveniences

OK, so anyone planning a holiday in Rio is going to have more important things on their mind than where to find a toilet. The beaches, the beautiful Brazilian girls, the beautiful Brazilian boys, the samba, the street parties, the spectacular views…all quite rightly take priority in tourists’ minds over the issue of public loos. But, especially in light of the effect that all those caipirinhas and unfamiliar foods can have on the stomach, trying to find a public toilet can become an issue of huge importance when you’re actually out and about on your vacation in Rio de Janeiro. Given the city’s safety problems, it’s not surprising that free public conveniences are hard to come by, so it really does help to know where to look. Recent years have seen toilet troubles eased at Ipanema and Copacabana beaches, thanks to the installation of smart new toilet/shower facilities. You’ll have to pay upwards of R$1 to use the loo, but they’re safe and very clean. Away from the beaches, a good tip is to keep an eye out for McDonalds – although not actively encouraged, no member of staff will mind if you choose to use the ‘facilities’ without actually buying anything. There are branches of McDonalds dotted around the city, so if you’re caught short, try asking a friendly local if they can point you in the direction of the nearest branch. Modern shopping centers (known, helpfully, as ‘shoppings’ are equipped with well-maintained loos that are free to use, and can be found in Botafogo (Rio Sul shopping is a good toilet stop on the way to or from Sugar Loaf or Praia Vermelha in nearby Urca…) and in abundance in Barra da Tijuca. In Centro, your best bets are McDonalds or any one of the many free museums and cultural centers, and if you’re visiting Praca 15 de Novembre, the nearby Paco Imperial has good, clean toilets that are free to use – I wish I’d known this during my first few weeks in Rio, when I actually paid for a ferry ticket to Niteroi that I had no intention of using, just so I could get through the turnstile and use the toilets inside the ferry terminal! If none of these are available, approach any cafe or snack bar, smile and ask ‘Por favor, posso usar o banheiro?’. If you’re met with a stony response, you may well have to pay for a drink or snack, which will of course give you carte blanche to use the restroom.