Toqué: Fragmentary evidence

Everything about an experience at Toqué! is calculated. The environment, the ambiance, the cadence of service, the aesthetic experience as well as the presentation of the dishes themselves; the whole is a creation presented with the complexity of a symphony. 

The burgundy and grey interior, high ceilings and open modern space is the perfect setting for the high-end chick restaurant that this is. My first encounter here was just that: the set for a group of conniving reapers in the recently released made for DVD film “Dead Like Me”, filmed in Toqué!’s slick environment.

The centerpiece of design here is the immense glass-encased wine cellar that is more of a work of art itself. Bottles of wine float through the space perched on solid metallic rods. A Domaine Roc D’anglade, a Pinot Blanc from Marcel Deiss, or a Clos Roche Blanche Cuvée Cot just simply hang in the air on display.

You will also find the art-works by Montreal contemporary artist John Schweitzer. One of the artists long collages here juxtaposes an abstraction onto a host of Toque! envelopes with dated postmarks. They are fragments of memories and moments in time that reduce our lives to fleeting memories and un-catalogued moments.

The culinary adventure here begins with refreshing starter of princess scallops and wasabi mousse served on small ice pellets. While at first you taste a slight acidy infusion, it quickly disappears to become flavorful. The brochette of marinated salmon with cucumber and a soya vinaigrette is equally light. All of this light fare leads the way to a delicious creamy and beautifully presented duck foie-gras plate which I haven’t had this good since a visit to the famous Gundel Restaurant in Budapest.

The next course looked much like an abstract painting. A thin rabbit shoulder was the centerpiece, while surrounding it were brushstrokes of green onion and white garlic purees with young turnip, oyster mushrooms evenly placed on the rectangular plate. The main course of saddle of venison served with elderberries in a cranberry puree, a garlic clove, radish and cabbage kept the cadence, and lead to a softer cheese plate.  

Toqué!
Address: 900 place Jean-Paul-Riopelle
Phone: [514] 499 2084
URL: http://www.restaurant-toque.com
Email: info@restaurant-toque.com
City, Province: Montreal, Quebec
Neighborhood: Downtown
Hours of Operation: Tuesday to Saturday, from 5:30pm to 10:30pm