The Devil’s Nose: the Most Difficult Train in the World

One of the most famous (or infamous) traveller’s stops in Ecuador is the incredible Nariz del Diablo (Devil’s Nose) train ride. If your image of train travel in South America involves sitting on the roof as an antique train chugs through steep canyons on switchbacks, then this is the ticket. (Don’t worry, you can still sit inside the cars if that’s more your speed!)

Built at the turn of the last century, the train from Guayaquil to Quito went well until they reached an almost perpendicular wall of rock 800m high, nicknamed the “Devil’s Nose.” Many lives were lost in the building of what became called a masterpiece of railway engineering: a zigzag carved out of the rock, allowing the train to climb from 1800m to Alausí at 2600m by advancing and backing up; at the time it was touted as the “most difficult train in the world,” partially for the 18% gradient, then considered almost impossible. (Today a 1% grade is considered steep!)

Today, the train is one of the country’s most popular—if unusual—tourist attractions. Due to a 1997 landslide that destroyed part of the tracks, the trip today starts in Riobamba or Alausí, travels down through the many switchbacks and then returns to Alausí (or Riobamba) the same way. Sitting on the roof of the train is quite a trip (and the conductors come around to get your tickets on the roof too! See photo.) Plus At about $15, it’s a steal.

Since Alausí is out of the way and Riobamba is a great travel hub, I think it’s easier to catch the train there. If you want to get off at Alausí after that, it’s easy enough to arrange transport of some sort onwards. There isn’t really anything to see in Alausí itself.

Another option is to take the “Chiva Express,” tourist autoferros, essentially buses that have been outfitted to run on the tracks. Although these are probably more reliable (the train is delayed a lot!) I still like the traditional train.

Note that June to December are the best months, as the rainy season can make things a tad cloudy, plus you don’t want to be sitting on the roof of a train when it’s raining! Also note that Alausí is at over 2400m in altitude, so bring warm clothes, for the roof and especially for the nights.

At present the train from Riobamba leaves the railway station at around 7a.m. on Wednesdays, Fridays and Sundays. From Alausí you can either take a bus back, or pay an extra few bucks to return to Riobamba on the train. The ticket office at Riobamba train station is open from 6am on the days when trains are running. Check schedules ahead of time!