Santiago Wine Tasting – Concha y Toro

Chances are even if you know nothing at all about South American wine, you’ve still heard of Concha y Toro. No? How about Castillero del Diablo?

Started in 1883 by Don Melchor de Concha y Toro, this world famous winery has grown to become an ambassador for Chilean wine the world over. This is the Mondavi of Chile, and the massive operation is today the number one Chilean wine imported to the US. Today the company produces wine from 11,200 acres (4,500 hectares) of vineyards spread throughout Chile’s major wine regions.

The Castillero del Diablo label stems from a legend: in 19th century, Don Melchor, discovered that his vineyard workers were stealing wine from the cellars. To discourage this, he spread a rumour that the deepest cellar was haunted, naming it the Casillero del Diablo (Cellar of the Devil). Apparently the ruse worked, and a legend was born.

Ah, but what about the tasting? you say. Patience grasshopper.

The present-day pavilion used for tours and tasting sits on the grounds of the Casona de Pirque manor house, originally built in 1875 as Don Melchor’s family home. The wonderful estate boasts 57 acres in all, fringed by native trees and landscaped gardens.

After the tour (a decent wander around the property with explanations and tastings along the way), be sure to leave time to relax in the wine bar. There is an excellent selection of 18 wines by the glass, and a wide assortment of delicate tapas to accompany them—well worth the time and money. Wine bar hours: 10:00am to 6:30 pm.

Be aware that the 30km drive from downtown Santiago to the estate passes though what is today the seemingly endless sprawl of a polluted urban megacity—not exactly how I’d imagined it! The final destination is suitably bucolic and serene, with lovely views out over the vineyards, but it is only close to the end of the drive that the landscape changes from dreary to pleasant. If you are travelling during rush hour leave lots of extra time.

Picks: you should at least try the award-winning Don Melchor Cab Sauv; if the price tag is too high to bring a bottle home, at least hit the tasting room and imagine you’re in your living room.