La Cumbre, Cordoba, Argentina

Argentineans often sing the praises of the university city of Córdoba, but what they rarely tell you is that the real pleasures of Cordoba lie not within the city itself, but in the rolling hills and lakes of the surrounding countryside.

One gem we might not have found had it not been for an Argentinean friend with family ties there was the small town of La Cumbre. 100 km north of Cordoba, La Cumbre is a laid back town of B&B’s, in the Punilla valley (a popular tourist route known for its beauty), surrounded by modest mountains and fields of tall grass. Its most popular tourist draw is a country road a few clicks out of town nicknamed the Camino de los Artesanos, a cluster of artisans, artists and cafes set amid fields overlooking the valley—a great spot for sunset with a glass of Malbec. Although the silver jewellery we bought was unique and high-quality, and I do like my traditional carpincho (capybara, aka the largest rodent in the world) slippers, our favourite spot was restaurant and microbrewery Juku. The best way to get to the area is via private vehicle, about a 10 to 15 minute drive on the dirt country road; cycling or horseback riding are other fun options.

In fact, your own vehicle is really the best way to explore this region; although buses are frequent, many of the areas you want to get to are most easily reached with the flexibility of a rental car. (We did without but that was only because I’d left my licence in BA!) There are plenty of options in Córdoba, and the tourist information office in the bus station or airport can point you in the right direction.

In La Cumbre as well, there is a tourist information office (in the old rail station, in the centre of town) that can hook you up with accommodation, but be aware that in the high summer season the town is very popular with locals—reservations are recommended. We arrived off-peak and there were tons of options.

Aside from the several Jesuit estancias in the region—some of which have UNESCO World Heritage status (note: check opening days and times if you go to visit) Le Cumbre is famous for one other pursuit: paragliding… More about that shortly.

Some La Cumbre info sites:

http://www.enjoy-argentina.org/cordoba-road-of-la-punilla-la-cumbre.php
http://www.argentinaturistica.com/2lcuiresenia.htm
JUKU Cerveceria
Camino de los Artesanos
03548 15465710